Copenhagen Fashion Week is getting bigger season by season, as highlighted by the large contingent of international press and buyers currently in the Danish capital for the spring 2024 shows. Seeing the influx of people coming to the city, Baum und Pferdgarten’s Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave were thinking about the outsider’s perspective this season.
“A lot has been happening in Copenhagen in [recent] seasons,” Hestehave said. “Before, all the influencers and buyers would be wearing big brands, but the younger crowd is much more interesting. It’s so inspiring to just walk around when so many people are visiting Copenhagen.”
Taking this as a starting point, the designers paid homage to their home city through the eyes of a tourist. “Copenhagen Dreaming” blasted from the speakers during the outdoor show, held on a cobbled street outside Baum und Pferdgarten’s HQ. The Little Mermaid statue was a strong influence, translating into a series of nautical-inspired pieces—see the navy gingham, sailor hats, and piped sets—as well as the shimmering sequins sprinkled throughout the collection.
Ribboned corsets and souvenir-like jewelry (created in collaboration with Clara Lindmose) continued the kitsch vibe, along with an array of pink checked pieces that suggested Barbiecore isn’t going away anytime soon. While the statement outerwear will be popular with street stylers, the most effective pieces were less in-your-face. A striped denim set tied neatly into the theme, without being too gimmicky.
In wanting to give a complete tour of Copenhagen, there were perhaps a few too many ideas in the collection, with the graffiti prints and ’80s lace leggings struggling to compete for attention. It’s fun being a tourist in your own city, but Baum und Pferdgarten is at its best when it doesn’t veer too far from its signatures.
