Harunobu Murata is a studious romantic who takes the pink melancholy of yesteryear as the starting point for his elegant-looking women’s clothing. This season, inspiration was drawn from the work of American photographer Slim Aarons and Call me by your name director Luca Guadagnino, and the way they both capture the lazily sensual atmosphere of past summers.
The scene was well set, in a beautiful location in the Gallery of Horyuji Treasures of the Tokyo National Museum. A vast, shallow expanse of water outside the gallery served as a runway, and the cicadas vibrated in the surrounding trees as we waited for the models to come out, the soundtrack to Max Richter’s Bridgerton recomposition of Vivaldi’s ‘Summer’, playing in the sultry August air.
Unfortunately, as is often the case, reality couldn’t quite match the fantasy. The simpler black dresses in the final looks were cut well (Murata is a Jil Sander alumni), but much of the clothing looked ill-fitting and busy, while the accessories (big bags, blunt sneakers and chunky necklaces) did not . both weights and aggravates the collection. The prevailing impression was one of inadvertent disconnection.
Its success came in the form of a gradual dyeing process that was new to the brand and produced some impressive jewel-colored dresses that will no doubt be seen in the spring. But to more effectively channel the Guadagnino-style sultriness, Murata would benefit from pushing back.
