Since bursting onto the scene via Fashion East, Jawara Alleyne has made a lasting impression with his cut-and-paste punk-meets-pirate aesthetic that subverts gender ideologies. The designer often draws on his Jamaican-Caymanian heritage, especially in the way islanders express themselves through clothing. Alleyne’s return this summer provided a creative spark that resonated with his new collection – his first-ever solo show – in the form of a collaboration with local brand Mutiny. “I almost forgot that there’s a streetwear vibe to the way people dress at home,” he said after the show. “I wanted to combine that sensitivity with a layer of deconstruction, and working with Mutiny brought me even more in touch with my roots.”
Taking place in a converted church off East London’s Whitechapel Road – which now serves as artist Alvaro Barrington’s studio – the spectacle kicked off with Alleyne’s brother, Tafari, mesmerizing the audience with a spoken word performance set to a thumping mix of dancehall, rock, and reggae. As the collection appeared, it became clear that Alleyne was focusing on individual garments from a distinctive point of view, one that skews and distorts.
From crisp shirts and twisted T-shirts (some with the Mutiny logo across the chest) to mini dresses and maxi skirts, each piece featured elements of his signature safety pin embellishments. True to his signature style, jersey fabric played a prominent role in all its variations. “It’s what I call ‘island underground,’ which breaks away from the zeitgeist by taking the most ordinary, everyday garments and hacking and messing them up in the most punk rock way,” he said.
The silhouettes were tighter and provocatively lower than in the past; men’s looks took on a sharper stance (note the low-slung trunks), while women’s embraced more masculine contours. Alleyne deconstructs gender norms in his collections, but when asked to expand the concept of sexiness, he made it clear that he didn’t set out to deliver. “Where I come from, this is the way people dress because of the heat, but when I moved to London I realized that showing skin is prescribed as overtly sexual,” he noted. “Being comfortable with your body is more important.”
Highlights here included a take on eveningwear, such as a striped jacquard jersey dress with a plunging neckline and low-cut back, as well as a crimson wool maxi skirt and top set. Alleyne’s versatile design skills result in intriguing forms that can be both understated and sophisticated.
