aAll eyes were on Milan as a packed schedule of 176 appointments, presentations and parties for the spring/summer 2024 season took place as fashion week continued its tour of Europe. But three specific shows received the most attention. On the 21st, Peter Hawkings made his debut with Tom Ford and presented a line-up that paid great respect to both his mentor and the house’s founder. Simone Bellotti showed its debut at Bally two days later. But it was Sabato De Sarnowho presented his first collection as creative director of Gucci on the 22nd, which made the most news this season. Milan Fashion Week SS24
De Sarno’s concept for the Italian company was finally revealed after four collections were created without a creative director, and it became clear what route he intended to take with the house. by Alessandro Michele shocking departure last year.
De Sarno’s debut collection for Gucci was named “Ancora,” which the fashion house translates as “now, also then.” The designer focused on practical clothes inspired by the city streets – a departure from Michele’s theatrical collections for the house (the show was originally set to take place on the sidewalks of Brera, but rain forced a change to the Gucci Hub) – but with Gucci-specific flashes of glitter and craftsmanship. As a result, nods to staples like the tank top, hoodie, jeans and tailoring come together with baby doll dresses adorned with crystals or outerwear layered with glittering metallic tassels. The introduction of ‘Ancora Rosso’, a red color similar to ox blood that appears throughout the collection, was another notable development.
At Blumarine’s SS24 presentation, angels and butterflies were the motif par excellence as a representation of lightness, airiness and freedom. The collection was full of flowing fabric strands, asymmetrical skirts with ruffles and deftly placed drapes. Paying tribute to Blumarine’s contemporary free spirit, mesh cuts and sheer PVC dresses were contrasted with butterfly-shaped thongs. The sky is the only limit for the Blumarine wearer, who is simultaneously a goddess and a fairy.
In honor of her ten years as creative director of the brand, Genny’s Sara Cavazza Facchini created the SS24 collection. The collection is designed to represent a woman’s bright, radiant radiance and is anchored in her signature color white with accents of yellow and rose gold. The color scheme changes dramatically with the finale, which is done entirely in a deep, luscious crimson red, exuding sensuality and leaving a lasting impression in the audience’s imagination. This theme can be found in almost all 48 outfits, in addition to her characteristic ‘X’ pattern.
To see Diesel’s SS24 runway show, which designer Glenn Martens Declared free and open to the public in the spirit of inclusivity, crowds gathered in the pouring rain. In keeping with the spirit of the brash, austere collection that unfolded, models stomped down the catwalk in red carpet style to the sound of hard techno. While Martens’ affinity for denim was still evident, the designer put his own spin on the material using devoré, a burning method that gives clothing the appearance of practically disintegrating in real time. In keeping with the brand’s rugged character, jerseys and silks were also damaged, exuding an element of daring and recklessness. Milan Fashion Week SS24
Check out some of our favorite designs from the Milan Fashion Week SS24 shows…
Versace
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Gucci
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Tom Ford
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Blumarine
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Etro
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Diesel
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Roberto Cavalli
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Alberta Ferretti
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Fendi
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Bottega Veneta
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Genny
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Boss
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Moschino
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View the full collections at Vogue job.
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