The designers of the Vivienne Westwood label always draw inspiration from the enormous archives left behind by the legendary founder. For spring, the team paid tribute to Shakespearean England, a time when gender boundaries were fluid and self-expression was celebrated – values deeply entrenched in the Westwood ethos. The lookbook was shot in Shakespeare’s Globe, the historic Elizabethan theater built in 1599 where William Shakespeare wrote his famous plays. In true Westwood fashion, the collection featured compelling silhouettes, tactile fabrics and unexpected combinations of ideas.
At the brand’s Conduit Street headquarters, the collection was divided into different sections, each representing a different vibe. For starters, there was a romantic and messy tribute to Westwood’s spring 1998 Tied to the Mast collection. Jacquard separates in an over-dyed ecru hue embodied the opulence of Marie Antoinette’s Versailles, while retaining the punk sensibility with frayed edges. Off-the-shoulder dresses and cropped cardigans are made from vibrant, multi-colored stretch knit fabrics, offering a youthful interpretation of modest shapes.
The brand twisted the boundaries of gender binaries and transformed the Evolution of Man print into ultra-feminine silhouettes, with flowing shirt dresses and scalloped jackets. There were nods to Westwood’s ’80s heyday, with oversized cotton poplin button-downs and structured outerwear with pronounced shoulders. The corsetry, a Westwood signature since her 1987 Harris Tweed collection, was ingeniously crafted from knitted fabric, retaining the three-dimensional shape without traditional boning.
Pablo Picasso’s zigzag designs from the 1920 ballet Le Tricorne were puffy and embellished ’90s-inspired silhouettes. Elsewhere, a range of brightly colored trousers with integrated boxer shorts and chaps looked like real conversation starters. Overall, it’s clear that Westwood’s design team is enjoying delving into its remarkable archive.
