“I’ve never been a bling-bling girl. So I just wanted to go for it with the chains and beads.” This is what Luis de Javier said after the presentation of his spring 2024 collection. Decoration is not the only new thing for the Spanish-born, London-based designer. Other firsts included performances in the city of Los Angeles in a space in the middle of Hollywood, just above Sunset Boulevard; overcoming his fear of working with jersey; and hiring a new stylist: his mentor, Riccardo Tisci.
Against a techno soundtrack, in a space inspired by the famous Berlin club Berghain, De Javier presented a collection that has evolved from his previous ones, with a mature sense of proportion and volume. He continued his exploration of political commentary through clothing inspired by the Spanish hardcore rave movement of the 1990s, La Ruta del Bacalao. Because the movement was shut down by an oppressive government, the collection imagines a utopia in which the movement would still live today.
De Javier talked about referencing Cristobal Balenciaga’s early silhouettes and common fabrics. “It’s about working with what you have and just turning it around and turning it around and making something beautiful out of it,” he said. Corsets were the common denominator, as in seasons past, communicated in various materials such as leather, canvas and latex, and layered under and over other pieces. To master the difficult-to-use latex, De Javier spent a few weeks in a factory outside Manchester, England, getting it right.
A latex coat with exaggerated, flowingly draped shoulders; constructed as a corset or dress, it covered the body as if poured over it. The bling came in the form of chains and cords draped over jersey dresses, and unlikely materials, like extra-long ballerina nails, reimagined as dramatic fringes on an asymmetrical evening gown.
He confronted his fear of jersey by creating long faux-neck T-shirt dresses reminiscent of the Limelight crowd, provocatively repurposing the Pirelli tire logo to spell “puta,” which translates to whore in Spanish . Crisp cotton boxers peeked out from a pair of pleated and low-slung wide-leg trousers, the latter of which would make as much sense in broad daylight as in an after-hours club.
Mixing club-kid vibes and couture has been done before, often with regrettable results. Tisci’s mentorship adds refinement to De Javier’s vision. Where his previous collections had clear references, this one is more subtle, and what might have previously been rough around the edges now came with the romantic darkness that Tisci is known for. Tisci’s touch in the styling was also clearly visible, through the subdued color palette, the delicate mix of lace and leather, and the straps tied tightly around the bust. The jersey T-shirts worn over the head were reminiscent of a nun’s veil, which is in line with the religious references Tisci used during his time at Givenchy.
The fearlessness with which De Javier approaches his designs is intended to challenge social norms and provoke thought, but his genderless creations have transcended the underground club scene he originally set out to dress. They have become popular with party girls, and he counts Beyoncé, Rihanna and Kim Kardashian among the celebrities who have worn his clothes. The great thing about this collection is that it is indeed the sum of its parts. There are plenty of pieces that can be interpreted in different ways, for different people, so there really is something for everyone at this party.
