Just over a month after showing his Fall 2023 collection at New York Fashion Week in September, Sergio Hudson presented 14 looks for a Spring 2024 capsule collection. Hudson, who has been following a see-now, buy- now’ schedule has worked, returns to the traditional calendar. “I just feel like when we came out of COVID, everyone had this fresh idea that we were going to be ‘see-now, buy-now,’” Hudson said of the change. “I stepped out and did it, but I feel like I was a little alone there… Creating this capsule collection was our way of getting back on track.”
As a result of the tight timeline, Hudson designed his 1970s-inspired fall collection at the same time as his spring capsule, which features an ascetic color palette of white, camel and champagne, with one leopard standout. That’s not Hudson’s typical way of working. “The fall was so heavy and dark, I wanted a palate cleanser,” he said. “I’ve given them all the colors they need at the moment, so I thought maybe they need some neutral colors from us. But other than that, it’s a pretty standard encapsulation of Hudson’s ethos. He thought about his client, who summers in the Hamptons or Martha’s Vineyard but still attends meetings and works during the week. She would need a lightweight suit, such as a three-piece set in white denim; a fitted knee-length sleeveless light brown dress; flared trousers and wide legs; and wind instruments. For weekend parties: a full skirt with eyelets in Italian cotton and a matching top, or a diagonally cut slip dress. The jury wonders whether this powerful woman would wear the white hot pants, but on the catwalk they remind that this was a fashion show after all.