If Nensi Dojaka skipped the show this season, she certainly didn’t skimp on designing and developing her lingerie-meets-tailoring concept. For spring, she’s taken it in several directions, including denim, minimal jersey pieces, max-impact chiffon dresses, and even shoes with sleek bra straps and sheer zones, reflecting (and finishing) the looks and techniques she’s known for. .
Coming up with thoughtful fashion takes time (as Phoebe Philo learned) – time And trial, in the case of female designers. Dojaka laughed because she’s spent a lot more time than usual over the past six months “wearing my stuff and getting my own feedback.” Everything has to fit and be comfortable.” She is actually a designer who normally lives in black tailoring. Hence the care she took to fashion a radically new trouser suit, consisting of a single-breasted jacket with the top part replaced by a bra, paired with skinny trousers.
Silhouette work is one of the main activities of the most innovative fashion designers this season. Dojaka took Georgette – one of her staples – and cut the most beautiful godets in super flares on the wrists of bodysuits and jersey dresses and the ankles of leggings. It’s something that begs to be danced into. “Big sleeves that open when you walk!” In another feat of engineering, an empire-line bra-top chiffon evening dress was constructed so that it parted at the front and transitioned into a cool, graceful fullness of volume in movement. “I would like to see someone like Angelina Jolie in that,” Dojaka speculated.
She had put a lot of effort into designing more of the sculpted, draped “naked” dresses that made her name during the pandemic — pieces created with a level of haute couture. Still, her focus is on expanding what Nensi Dojaka can be in daywear. That could mean denim and matching bras, but with the flared chiffon leggings peeking out from below the ankles of the jeans. A styling quirk to set a trend, that one.
Dojaka’s idea for separates – as opposed to her party dresses – is a system of cropped mini cardigans and semi-sheer knit skirts, supported by high-waisted underwear and bras. “I loved that my mother took me to ballets when I was young in Albania. Maybe there’s some of that subconsciously,” she noted. “But what I actually like is that they are flexible. You can play with pieces from all my collections. I’ve always thought about that.”
