Ernesto Naranjo’s collections are a compendium of signature elements; each season he reuses his features in a different way. “I have always believed that if you want to communicate your DNA and make your audience aware of it, you have to draw on what you have done [before] and look for other options to convey it,” he says. This time, the Seville-born designer placed elastic tulle at the forefront to explore and play with the idea of ’filtering’, just like photographer Erwin Blumenfeld. “I saw myself exploring the concept in a similar way, but using different technologies,” Naranjo explains. He blurred floral and feather prints until they became abstract images, adding fringed belts and hair donut-shaped volumes to take certain elements out of context. “We distort reality, that kind of beauty.”
Naranjo incorporated fabrics such as gabardine, knits and metallic finishes in a proposal of unexpected chromatic gradients starring dresses, along with daytime pieces with hints of Y2K inspiration. Elsewhere, his usual oversized silhouettes were in conversation with more fitted styles, something he started to explore last season. “I’ve always been about covering the body through geometry, but now I want to show it off a little more,” he said. There were no zippers and trousers often only had one button, but thanks to the elasticity of the materials, his pieces slid over the body like a second skin.
