Lorenzo Serafini saw the pre-fall as a kind of confrontation between the enigmatic appeal of Hitchcock’s divas from the 1950s and the austere strictness of the 1990s. During a showroom appointment, he said that while he was attracted by the appeal of mysterious femininity, he remained true to the ease and clarity of design that today’s woman expects. Its heroine was perhaps more Kim Novak than Grace Kelly: modern, concise charm instead of icy hauthor.
Despite the mysterious appearance, comfort was paramount at Serafini, so much so that all fabrics in the collection had built-in stretch to make them elastic and easy to move with. Even the hourglass shapes he favors and the roomy circle skirts paired with fitted turtlenecks are made in unusual blends of mesh and scuba, finely printed to look like masculine wool. Textures ranged from plain to extreme checks, almost like stockings. “Sensuality and comfort, that’s what it’s all about,” says Serafini.
There is always an element of grace in his design; he doesn’t like overdressing or in-your-face statements. Here, the clean lines inspired by 90s minimalism were softened by soft drapes à la Geoffrey Beene, embellishing even the most sinuous silhouettes, or enhanced by contrasting plays of matte and transparent textures. Outerwear was enveloping and comforting; jackets and cabans felt soft and cozy, with hooded scarves for going incognito; they beautifully complemented feminine, bias-cut dresses with ruffles. For the evening, Serafini turned masculine fabrics into unconventional sensual silhouettes, or returned to black bodycon numbers for drama. Even though discretion is part of his vocabulary, going unnoticed is not an option.
