Since executive vice president of design Enrico Chiarparin took the helm of the brand and appointed stylist Karla Welch as creative advisor, St. John has focused on seasonless American sportswear. For fall, Chiarparin added a little Western flair to the basics: tailored jackets, midi dresses and, of course, tweed suits. St. John has added details like mother-of-pearl snaps, western yoke and studs and scarf straps at the neck to the classic silhouettes. Americana has been popular for a few years, but these touches are so subtle that they can’t necessarily be read as part of the craze. Chiarparin cited Elvis Presley and Katharine Hepburn as inspirations, illustrating St. John’s more classical view. (Although there are cowboy boots in the lookbook to drive home the point).
The brand is known for its tweed coats, and this season’s star is a cream-colored boxy number with fringes along the pockets and large mother-of-pearl buttons. Some of the more relaxed, flowing pieces work particularly well: the jumpsuit with a bandana-inspired print, a robe-like royal blue wrap dress, another midi dress with studs along the neck and wrists. If the goal is to make easy, versatile American sportswear, then mission accomplished.
