Editor’s Note: We continue our tradition of expanding the Vogue Runway archive by digitizing collections originally shot on film, focusing on shows from the past that respond to today’s concerns. Here’s Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring 1997 collection, which explored the history of Western fashion, starting with Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. This Spring 1997 collection was originally presented in Paris on October 12, 1996.
Let’s hope that discussions about women’s place in fashion are not just a trend, but become a priority. “Women Dressing Women” at the Met is finally giving female designers their due. So did Yohji Yamamoto’s show in the spring of 1997. The opening clearly seems to reference Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who designed for women on the go — action figures, if you will. Yamamoto himself was busy deconstructing the classic tweed vest suit, showing a version with raw hems and pairing it with exaggerated men’s button-downs and shirts with Byronesque fringe.
Next was a group of black-clad ‘dandies’, followed by hourglass looks that played opaque against sheer and even more structured pieces. A long, round silhouette, decorated with a weakened parasol, was reminiscent of a drawing by Mary Cassatt, In the museum, while a New Look suit and umbrella was reminiscent of René Gruau’s drawings for Dior.
Back to the present brought a number of ensembles made from a simple and light muslin-like material that functioned as black cloths; this was followed by kaleidoscopic explosions of color and pattern. Esther de Jong, with tousled hair in bed, walked the catwalk in a royal blue dress with triangular cutouts, framed with colorful beadwork, made in India. Dévoré velvets were another soft and colorful addition to the collection, while dramatic, organic silver jewelry added dimension to the collection.
The final looks included a series of draped dresses and dramatic hats; Carolyn Murphy wore all white, Jodie Kidd inky black and Kirsty Hume the sunny yellow of a new day. This dress can be read as an expression of Yamamoto’s statement: “‘With my eyes turned to the past, I walk backwards into the future.”
