If success is measured by the size of a brand’s stand in Pitti Uomo’s Padiglione Centrale, Brunello Cucinelli scores quite highly. As vast as a ballroom, always packed, populated by the group of designers-turned-collaborators-turned-models, and presided over by the entrepreneur himself, who feels completely at ease amid a constant coming and going of clients and friends. Despite building an empire with a market cap of about $6 billion, he remains grounded and approachable, ready to share his wisdom on what he calls “balanced, gracious growth.”
Consistency and distance from fleeting trends are part of Cucinelli’s ethos; his take on menswear conveys a soft, airy revision of the classic Italian codes of clothing call cloakroom, the national sport of looking polished without looking too precious or overly fussy. He cringes when he is defined as the standard bearer of the craze for quiet luxury, which he actually calls quiet luxury. “I don’t want to be silent when I change, who the hell wants to seem silent?” he mused, sounding rather irritated. “Everyone wants to look great every day of the year, possibly more handsome and worthy of attention than the day before.”
However, Cucinelli’s flattering suits are not suitable for everyone, as they are quite expensive. That doesn’t detract from the brand’s appeal to younger customers, who buy a blazer as an investment piece and pair it with denim or more formal options. It’s an attitude that pleases Cucinelli, who believes in individuality when it comes to taste.
Small, nuanced adjustments to lengths, fits and details keep the brand’s look fresh and attractive. Cucinelli believes that elegance can appeal to a young audience if it is treated with a modern approach, less extravagant and showy, without being blandly classic and average. That the crowd of peacocks hanging out for photo ops outside Pitti’s Padiglione Centrale this season felt less exuberant and cocky than usual seemed to validate the designer’s POV.
His fall offering was subtly rejuvenated: chic silk ties were worn beneath handmade, rustic chiné knits tucked into corduroy trousers, casual beige trench coats were thrown over black velvet tuxedos, sporty piuminos were replaced by impeccable yet roomy city coats, and flowing trousers shone convenience while remaining neatly old-fashioned. The Cucinelli collection is tailored to the light-hearted view of male clothing that suits it Air’s temperature.
