There was a lot of hair energy at Nicklas Skovgaard’s second show – and additional parts inspired by the hedonistic 1980s. The designer, who did not experience them herself at the age of 29, channels those turbulent times vicariously through three muses. They are his mother Annie, who moved to London around that time to train as an aerobics instructor; filmdom’s favorite suit and sneaker-wearing go-getter, Working girlTess McGill (Melanie Griffith); and Lecia Jønsson, singer of the Danish pop duo Laban.
Skovgaard’s clothes took up space, starting with the opening look, a kind of layered bubble dress in oil-slick black. Equally dramatic was a gown with a farthingale/life-saving skirt treatment at local favorite Sixten “Siggy” Sonne. The puffy silhouette is all the rage right now (see Rick Owens Duran Lantink) and by dropping the waist, in the right shape for the era, Skovgaard created a blouson effect (which is a different kind of bell) on a draped white number . Several looks featured smocked waists instead of corsets that drew attention to broad shoulders.
There were few hard lines or Patrick Nagel angles in this collection. Instead, Skovgaard applied a soft touch to handmade knits. Continuing the expressiveness of last season’s debut, the models paused on circular sheepskin rugs, placed in the center of circular chairs in a stone-floored church hall, to express their emotions. After the show, the designer’s muse, Anna Ravn Lei, was cheerful and said she would like to play another waltz across the room.
‘Baroque’ was the word Skovgaard used in reference to the ruffles he used, but this collection felt freer than that. The show closed with a Liza Minelli-meets-the-Snow Queen finale that was flirty and a bit of a fairy tale. Mrs. McGill, who famously said, “I have a sense of business and a sense of sin,” would have agreed.
Skovgaard showed as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s New Talent program. This Dane still does most things alone, and production is the next hurdle he has to overcome, but his voice rings clear through the bells that mark the hour here. The goodwill surrounding him is proof that his message has been well received.
