Wei Lin and Zoe Champion’s remarkable jacquard knits really need to be seen up close to be appreciated, so it was a wise move that they put on a presentation. In the past, the duo has used their collections to highlight global issues such as ocean plastic and workers’ rights; this fall the focus was on the brand’s specialty: knitting. To counter the limiting perception that needlework is crafty or for grandmas, the team, Champion said, “really liked the idea of a CEO or a big businessman who also just knits during meetings.” So they chose the location as a chi-chi office in the WSA building with Halstone-esque interiors and sweeping views of Lower Manhattan and tried to evoke an executive atmosphere by having models hold clipboards and The Financial Times. This was unconvincing, both in terms of the clothing, which looked playful rather than professional, and the staging.
More successful was the decision to base the collection on the idea of a scarf, which, Champion explained, is usually the first project for beginners. Scarves were built into garments in various ingenious ways, and thread was added to the edge of some garments to enable the wearer to create a windswept appearance in any weather. Patterns were inspired by ties from the designer’s own collection, and the idea of wrapping a scarf around the body inspired a new spiral construction technique, which was especially effective on asymmetrical trousers. Also excellent: the trompe l’oeil jacquard jeans.
In the spring, the brand made its catwalk debut and introduced knitted/woven pieces. These appeared again for fall, most effective on a puffer with knit collar and cuffs. And while Champion said the PH5 isn’t “really known for its winter coziness,” there were pieces made with faux fur as well as lighter pieces with open stitching used for layering that didn’t relate to the rest of the lineup.
One of the reasons why knitwear is so exciting right now is the way technology has been integrated into the field to enable processes such as zero-waste construction. This season, PH5 showed UV-reactive knits that change color in different types of light, used yarns treated with hyaluronic acid that hydrate the skin, and introduced heat technology for its first slope-ready garment, a second-skin suspender bodysuit with the brand’s signature color gradient. The combination of the contour effect with comfort and warmth was functional and fantastic, with exciting expansion possibilities.
