With more Milan brands in the midst of a major overhaul, it pays to be Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. With almost 40 years of experience, they not only know who they are and what they stand for, they are also good at executing it. Indeed, they’ve been at it long enough to see their early designs collected as vintage.
In recent years they have started a project to sharpen their own signature. At a recent show, they even sent out clothes with labels showing the original year and season they appeared on the runway. They have never shied away from repetition, but lately they have pursued it and made it a virtue. “By perfecting essential pieces, we have created our personal and recognizable style,” the press notes said.
For autumn they chose the tuxedo as the subject. It is “the ultimate symbol of pure style,” they explained. “The simpler a piece, a classic like the tuxedo, the more perfect it is, eternal, free from the limitations of time.” A Spencer jacket with stitched satin lapels, over a lace camisole and panties and a tuft of skirt tied with a large ribbon bow, opened the show. From there, they experimented with different hem lengths in single- and double-breasted styles, adjusting the width of the lapels and the height of the notches accordingly. While one tuxedo was boxy and oversized, the other was nipped at the waist with padded hips for an hourglass shape.
The show was completed by boudoir-style dressing gowns, sometimes accented with their own satin lapels or adorned with a hand-pleated cummerbund; lace cocktail dresses and stretchy, crystal-studded gowns; and striking statement coats made of shaggy faux fur, leopard spots or feathers. But the tuxedo was the thing. It was a showcase for the designers’ renowned tailoring precision, and a lesson for the many less experienced designers currently trying to make their mark in Milan. To achieve Dolce & Gabbana’s longevity, it pays to have a clear, unique point of view.
