Bianca Saunders joins the ranks of designers embracing a digital-first approach this season, the recipient of the New Establishment Menswear Award at the Fashion Awards 2023. The British-Jamaican designer has been transitioning to presenting her collections since early 2022 on the Paris agenda and has refined its core silhouettes for fall. “This collection encompasses everything I want to say with my brand right now,” she said in a preview, “And I also wanted to show some looks from women, because everyone should be able to wear my clothes and feel comfortable with them. clothes.”
Inspired by Richard Avedon and James Baldwin’s 1964 book, Nothing personal, which examined the contradictions within American identity, the collection delved into the complexities of both the inner and outer self. While maintaining her signature cut throughout the lineup, Saunders imbued each piece with clever twists, describing them as “awkward and sexy” at the same time. Her denim sets, for example, underwent a textural transformation, crafted in striking red vinyl and soft lapis wadding. She kept the twisted seam trousers and matching wide-shouldered cropped jacket, introducing branded labels and bending the jacket’s collar so that it hugged the neck up to the ears when unfolded – mimicking the silhouette of a ’60s cocoon coat .
Elsewhere, collars remained a focus of research throughout. A bronze shirt made from a cotton and polyester blend, seen on both male and female models, was tailored with darts at the back and on the shoulder seams, with an exaggerated collar, completed with matching long johns from Lurex. Another highlight was a white cotton poplin shirt with hidden buttons, decorated with meticulously pleated details across the front – referencing a portrait of Avedon with a wrinkled shirt tucked into his trousers. A gingham silk Vichy taffeta shirt offered voluminous proportions and a permanent stand-up collar. This season’s jackets, made from water-repellent nylon, featured a detachable handkerchief collar detail.
It is worth noting that this season the designer emphasized the use of deadstock fabrics, obtained from the LVMH-backed platform Nona Source, in addition to materials from Positive Materials and ISKO. Despite the choice of a digital presentation, Saunders’ signature tailoring, subtle minimalism and graceful drapery came to the fore, placing movement at the center.
