If the weather gods were on Shinya Kozuka’s side at his last show of the summer, it looked like they were exacting revenge tonight. On perhaps the most miserable rainy evening of the year so far, the designer held his fall show in the (drained, but still very wet) outdoor pool of the Tokyo Prince Hotel.
Upon arrival, we were herded to a nearby cafeteria building to escape the deluge while the staff handed out clear plastic rain ponchos. Then we went outside and took a seat at the edge of the pool. Hundreds of us sat there shivering like damp ghosts, bathed in the blue light of the pool as the Tokyo Tower glowed red in the night sky above. It was quite a scene.
When Kozuka’s models finally came out and strolled around the empty pool, the bad weather almost seemed like it was by design, as the models’ diving fins lightly splashed in the rain.
The pool came about because Kozuka had taken up swimming after his last show as a way to get in shape, and he said he came up with many of his ideas for this season’s collection in the water. There were jackets in trompe l’oeil fur print, nylon sewn to look like cable knit, and Kozuka’s own festive take on Fair Isle, which was seen in oversized sweaters, cozy hoodies and frock-style coats. Then came the badge-covered jackets, sequined dresses, pinstripe suits and a wispy poncho that wrinkled like fabric made from water.
Overall, there is an original sense of creativity in what Kozuka brings; his clothes really don’t look like anyone else’s. But there was so much floating around here that it felt underdeveloped at times. Kozuka has a lot of ideas, but he still needs to edit more.
Still, there was plenty to enjoy, and the rain didn’t dampen Kozuka’s mood. Overloaded with inspiration, the designer had called the collection his Winter Feast. And although we went home cold and damp, we ultimately left feeling well nourished.
