It’s an anxious world right now, with many reasons to worry: climate change, another US election, and the disappearance of the middle class, to name a few. Many designers have expressed a sense of concern through their recent collections. As for John Elliott, he’s been there, done that, and has shifted to an optimistic mindset for the fall of 2024.
“I kind of felt like the American dream was slipping through my children’s fingers before my eyes,” Elliott said, speaking about his Spring 2024 collection now in stores. “It came from a place of anger, which I’ve never had before [expressed] for.” The collapse of Silicon Valley Bank left him questioning the future of his young children.
Elliott has left the American Dream behind, as many of us are beginning to do. He found inspiration for his Fall 2024 collection in northern Italy, specifically in the city of Modena, known for its balsamic vinegar, Pavarotti and some of the world’s fastest cars. In town for a quick trip to dinner at Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, he visited the Maserati factory on a whim. The supercars on the factory floor and the lifestyle of the engineers who design them were his starting point. “I realized that the people who build Ferraris and Maseratis are some of the most skilled and most interesting people in the world.” He took a voyeuristic approach, watching them go from the factory floor to football practice or a night out. “I just look at how these guys dressed. I was very inspired by this way of life.”
The collection is a step up from his previous collections and reinforces the argument that not every designer needs a catwalk to convey their vision. It combines tailoring with sportswear, in a rich palette of earth tones that work seamlessly together. Elliott relied on its relationships with factories in Italy and Japan to develop specialty fabrics. Textured moleskin and worn leather evoke the feeling of sinking into the bucket seat of a ’70s race car. Anoraks and training shorts in matte nylon with functional performance details are meant to be paired with overcoats, as you would if you were going from your day job to an evening match. Trousers in tropical wool have a sporty drawstring waist, while the high-neck thermal cashmere is a nod to the protective gear worn on the track. The floral print on poplin pieces is inspired by a Chinese oil painting from the house of Enzo Ferrari.
He acknowledges it’s a departure from what he’s done before, but not that big of a leap. “It feels quite intellectual and expensive, but ultimately it’s rooted in utility. It’s a reflection of where I am in my life.”
