The velvet curtains are closed for an era at Valentino. After 25 remarkable years, Pierpaolo Piccioli has announced his departure from the Italian fashion house. While the news sends shockwaves through the fashion world, it is also a moment to celebrate Piccioli’s transformative impact on Valentino. Let’s walk down memory lane and explore Piccioli’s journey with Valentino, the milestones he achieved and the legacy he left behind.
Here is a summary of his journey from 1999 to 2024…
Finding His Position: 1999-2008
Piccioli’s Valentino story began in 1999, when he came alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri, was tasked with reinvigorating the brand’s accessories category. While Piccioli himself reminisced to Vogue: “I was happy that I ended up there when I was an adult.” He entered a world full of tradition, like that of Valentino “formal – very, very formal” aesthetics, as he described it, prevailed. This structured environment provided a valuable foundation for Piccioli, allowing him to immerse himself in the intricacies of the fashion system.
The talent and dedication of both Piccioli and Chiuri were quickly recognized. Their collaborative spirit propelled them through the ranks, leading them to take charge of the younger, playful Red Valentino line in 2003. This experience honed their collaboration skills and prepared them for the greater challenges ahead.
A spirit of collaboration and a bold vision: 2008-2016
A pivotal moment came in 2008 when they were appointed co-creative directors of Valentino. This period marked a turning point for the brand. Respecting Valentino’s heritage, Piccioli and Chiuri began to develop a bolder vision, one that reflected their sensibilities. During this era of collaboration, Piccioli’s rise to prominence began as he co-created collections that attracted widespread attention. His exceptional talent for color would soon become a defining characteristic of his work.
Shaping Valentino’s future as sole creative director: 2016-2024
Following Chiuri’s departure to Dior in 2016, Piccioli took over as Valentino’s sole creative director. This marked a new chapter, not only for Valentino but also for Piccioli himself. In a heartfelt Instagram post, Piccioli acknowledged the importance of this transition, saying: “Not all stories have a beginning or an end, some live in a kind of eternal present that shines so brightly that no shadows arise.”
This period confirmed Piccioli’s status as a fashion icon. He championed inclusivity within the brand and promoted diversity through the “Di. Vas“ initiative and selecting ambassadors who defied traditional boundaries. Lewis Hamiltonthe celebrated Formula 1 driver known for his bold fashion choices, and Sugathe passionate rapper and style influencer of BTS, are just a few examples of Piccioli’s commitment to inclusivity.
In addition to inclusivity, Piccioli pushed the boundaries of Valentino’s aesthetic. He introduced innovative elements such as streetwear influences, the now iconic ‘PP Pink’ shade and structured silhouettes that redefined Valentino’s signature elegance. His couture creations became favorites on the red carpet, including celebrities Zendaya And Lady Gaga graces the world stage with its breathtaking designs. His influence also extended beyond the red carpet, fueling the ‘Barbiecore’ trend with his ‘Pink PP’ creations.
As a result of these achievements, he received a Time 100 award, a place on the BoF 500 list and the Fashion Award for Designer of the Year. Piccioli’s last collection for Valentino, Fall 2024, presented entirely in black, could be interpreted as a farewell to his long tenure.
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A well-deserved award
As Pierpaolo Piccioli embarks on a new adventure, the fashion world applauds his remarkable career at Valentino. Jacopo VenturiniCEO of Valentino, expressed his gratitude: “I am grateful to Pierpaolo for his role as creative director and for his vision, commitment and creativity that have brought Maison Valentino to where it stands today.Similar sentiments were echoed by Valentino’s chairman Rachid Mohammed Rachidwho added: “We express our deepest gratitude to Pierpaolo for writing an important chapter in the history of the Maison Valentino. His contribution over the past 25 years will leave an indelible impression.“
Piccioli shared a poignant post on Instagram, reflecting on his journey at Valentino. In Italian he wrote:
“Not all stories have a beginning or an end, some live in a kind of eternal present that shines so brightly that no shadows arise. I have been working for this company for 25 years, and for 25 years I have existed and lived with the people who have woven the fabric of this beautiful story that is mine and ours… With thanks to Mr. Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti who have blessed me with their trust, and thanks to everyone who in one way or another made this possible. It has been a privilege and an honor to share my journey and my dreams with you.”
With Piccioli’s departure, Valentino says goodbye to a visionary who reshaped the brand’s identity and pushed the boundaries of fashion. While the fashion world eagerly awaits Piccioli’s next chapter, his legacy at Valentino remains a lasting testament to his talent, creativity and unwavering commitment to inclusivity and innovation.
Featured image: Niccolò Berretta for The Hollywood Reporter Roma
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