Shortly after British painter Gluck, born Hannah Gluckstein, debuted her first solo exhibition at London’s Dorien Leigh Galleries in 1924, her signature menswear, including custom shirts from Jermyn Street, caused such a stir in the press that she felt compelled to to make a statement: “I just don’t like women’s clothing,” she said. “I believe the time will come when… in terms of clothing, the girl of the future will be indistinguishable from her brother or boyfriend.”
Although her prediction has not proven entirely true, button-up shirts like the ones Gluck favored have indeed become a classic – rather than convention-defying – part of women’s wardrobe, thanks in part to post-war fashion icons like the actresses Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn. . And yet a host of contemporary designers, from Rachel Scott of New York-based brand Diotima to Olivia Villanti of Chava in Mexico City, are proving that the garment is still ripe for reinterpretation.
“I love reimagining classics with a meticulous eye for detail,” says Dutch designer Flòrian van Zuilen, 32, who launched her Amsterdam brand Flore Flore in 2021 with organic cotton T-shirts. Last week she debuted a five-piece collection of white button-ups that she spent a year and a half perfecting. The shirts range from slimline to oversized, are handmade in Portugal and finished with carefully researched details. The pronounced collar of the Giulia, for example, is inspired by vintage Armani. And just like Van Zuillen’s tank tops and T-shirts, the shirts will eventually be offered in a large number of colors. As she says, “There is not alone An perfect shirt.”
New York-based designer Nili Lotan, 66, agrees. Since she founded her label over twenty years ago, she has introduced a new version every season, whether striped or plain, shrunken or relaxed. “When a woman walks into the room, you want to be impressed her, not because of what she wears,” she says. “The button-down is not loud, but it brings out your natural beauty.” Below are a few of T’s favorites.
