What’s going on with chest pockets on shirts? Where did they go with men’s shirts? And why do they still exist on women’s clothing? How can all this make sense? – Kristine, Boston
Pockets are one of those seemingly small details that evoke a wide range of opinions and unexpectedly strong feelings – whether it’s the fact that women’s clothing no longer has them or the incredible disappearing breast pocket.
Because yes, the breast pocket has been out of favor for a while, at least when it comes to shirts, where it has fallen victim to both fashion and technology.
On J.Crew’s websiteonly two styles out of three pages of men’s shirts feature a chest pocket, while at SuitsupplyNone of the classic shirts have chest pockets. Even on Brooks brotherspurveyor of the menswear tradition, which claims to sell more than four million shirts a year, according to spokesperson Arthur Wayne, 40 percent of shirts are now sold without a chest pocket, a number that has increased over time.
A largely mid-century inventionthe breast pocket became popular as vests went out of fashion as men, who did not carry handbags, needed more places to store their belongings. If a wallet could be tucked into trousers or a jacket, the breast pocket turned out to be the perfect place to carry pens and store glasses.
But since the turn of the millennium, as writing utensils have become less and less important and phones have replaced pocket protectors, which themselves began to acquire a not entirely attractive nerd reputation, chest pockets have had a similarly diminished raison d’etre (i.e. larger phones fit more easily into a pocket).
At the same time, slim silhouettes became increasingly popular. As Brooks Brothers creative director Michael Bastian said when I asked, “To me, on a classic skirt suit, no pocket feels as polished.” This is especially true if the shirt is worn under a jacket.
However, when it comes to women’s clothing, the breast pocket, as with many garments adapted from a man’s wardrobe for a woman’s, and because the button-up shirt functions as a symbol as much as an actual garment, serves to semiology of its origins – which may be why it persists. In that sense, its purpose is less practical than political.
Jeffrey Kalinsky, Theory’s designer, says that “pockets on a women’s shirt should be there to show a reference, such as military or safari, or to suggest a feeling.” Like ‘boss’ for example.
But given the overall trend, he added: “I think the most important piece a woman can have in her closet right now is a very classic, slightly oversized white poplin shirt for men, without pockets.” Of all Theory women’s shirtsonly one – a cropped camp style – has a pocket.
All this means what? As with much fashion these days, including jeans and hem lengths, “there’s not really a rule,” Mr. Bastian said. It’s up to the individual, which can be both liberating (yes, personal choice!) and confusing (so many options to scroll through).
Still, you can take solace in the fact that when it comes to shirts and pockets, Mr. Kalinsky believes one immutable law remains: “Chambray shirts require breast pockets for all genders.”
Your style questions, answered
Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa answers a reader’s fashion-related question, which you can send to her at any time e-mail or Tweet. Questions are edited and condensed.
