Choosing a safe self-tanner is not difficult, is it?
You just go to the store and choose the one that suits you best.
That’s what we all thought until recently. There is information on the Internet that suggests these products may not be as safe as we thought.
Do we have to worry? We decided to dive in.
Safe self-tanner: what is DHA?
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is the active ingredient in sunless tanning products that causes a brownish pigmentation on the skin. Chemically it is a sugar, usually derived from beets and sugar cane. Currently, DHA is the only ingredient that the FDA has approved for use in sunscreens.
How does DHA work?
When you apply tanning lotion to the skin, the DHA in the solution attaches to the dead cells on the surface layer. It then reacts with amino acids in the skin to form pigment products called melanoids.
This reaction is called the Maillard reaction and is also responsible for browning the crust of most breads. Amino acids and sugars react to create melanoids, and brown compounds are formed.
Photo by Armin Rimoldi via Pexels.
Safe self-tanner: is DHA safe to use?
The FDA has deemed DHA safe for topical use, but they have limited it to external application. The administration warns against applying it to the lips or to any other part of the body covered with mucous membranes.
In other words, the FDA has not approved DHA for ingestion or inhalation. Nor has the FDA approved DHA for spray tanning or nebulization because of the risk of inhaling it or getting some in your nose and mouth. DHA is also not allowed for use near the eyes.
So as long as you limit your use of sunless tanners to topical applications, you’ll be fine, right?
Study raises questions about the safety of DHA
There is some evidence that DHA can cause harmful free radicals. In a Study from 2017For example, researchers noted that an “excess” of DHA in cells “can cause advanced glycation end products (AGE) and oxidative stress.” That means a lot of DHA in skin cells can create free radicals and AGE products, which over time can accelerate premature aging.
The researchers went one step further and showed that when human melanoma cells (skin cancer cells) were exposed to DHA, those cells were sensitive to it and showed a burst of free radical formation within an hour. Could this indicate that DHA exposure has toxic effects on skin cells?
A previous study showed similar results. Scientists investigated the effect of DHA on cells in the laboratory. They found that DHA harmed cells and damaged DNA. Their findings, they suggested, “raise a question about the long-term clinical consequences of treating the skin with this commonly used agent.”
Lucas Anthony, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Boca Raton, Florida, shared Consumer Reports DHA has been shown to cause an increase in free radicals in the skin.
“This can contribute to skin aging, because the free radicals break down collagen and elastin in the skin, leading to wrinkles and skin aging.”
However, she went on to say that the aging effect is unlikely to be pronounced. DHA reacts mainly with the upper layers of the skin, which contain dead skin cells. It is in the deeper layers of the skin where we are more concerned about excessive free radicals damaging collagen and elastin.
We need more studies to figure this out. So far, most have been done in the laboratory, and not on real people. But the results do suggest that caution is needed in the future.
Safe Self Tanner: How to Be Safe When Using Sunless Tanner
Follow these recommendations to ensure you can tan safely this summer.
1. Avoid mucous membranes
DHA should not be applied near the eyes, lips or nose. It can be dangerous if inhaled or swallowed. That means you have to be extra careful with spray and mist tanners. It may be safest to avoid these completely and stick to lotions, gels, and drops.
If you do use sprays or mists, be sure to protect your eyes, nose and mouth. If you get a spray tan, wear a mask if possible. Pregnant women and people with asthma should be especially careful.
2. Read the labels
DHA isn’t the only ingredient to look out for in self-tanning products. Some also contain toxic ingredients such as parabens, sulfates and artificial fragrances. Look for “clean” products that use only safe ingredients. If you have sensitive skin or allergies, use only the natural DHA and fragrance-free options.
3. Perform a patch test
It is always best to do a patch test on a small area of skin when trying a new self-tanner of any kind. You want to make sure you are not sensitive or allergic to it before applying it all over your body. If you have reactive skin or are allergic to DHA (the active ingredient in most self-tanning products), you will likely see a red, itchy rash and should avoid self-tanning.
4. Use sun protection
Many people are under the mistaken impression that because a fake tan darkens the skin, it somehow gives the skin an increased resistance to the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays.
The opposite is actually true. In a Study from 2008scientists discovered that the reaction DHA creates in the skin generated free radicals during UV radiation. In other words, sun exposure caused the formation of free radicals. The scientists found that in DHA-treated skin, more than 180 percent extra radicals were generated during sun exposure, compared to untreated skin.
This means that it is even after using self-tanner more important to protect your skin from the sun. Use a safe sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or more.
5. Take good care of your skin before and after tanning
Daily skin care can increase the chances that your skin will stay healthy, radiant and smooth all summer long. It also increases your skin’s resistance to damage. In addition, hydrated skin ensures that self-tanners perform better and last longer than dry, thirsty skin.
Cleanse, tone and moisturize regularly with chemical-free, pH-balanced, breathable moisturizers like our Calming Moisture and Body Repair Lotion. They hydrate, nourish and replenish the skin, while strengthening and protecting the skin barrier. It is also important to protect yourself from the sun and nourish your skin from within with healthy foods and plenty of water.
Experts recommend waiting immediately after the spray tan or self-tanner to apply moisturizers until after the first shower, but only then starting to moisturize. Moisturizing after a self-tanner helps maintain that sun-kissed radiant glow and prevents free radical damage to the skin that leads to skin aging.
Rescue & Relief Spray based on aloe provides soothing moisture and helps to balance the skin from head to toe.
Self-tanners remain the safest option
Many of us have turned to self-tanners to avoid the potential danger associated with tanning our skin in the sun or in a tanning bed. As far as we know so far, self-tanners are safer than tanning beds and excessive sun exposure. (Sunbeds are the most dangerous when it comes to skin damage because they emit more UVA light than natural sunlight.)
However, it may be wise to take some precautions, such as those mentioned above. You may also want to give your skin a break every now and then. Perhaps during the winter, when you wear more clothes, you can stop using self-tanner until the warmer months arrive.
How do you choose a safe self-tanner?
Featured image by Armin Rimoldi via Pexels.
