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When you think of France, you probably think of Paris.
Unfortunately, this also applies to every other tourist who goes to the land of croissants and culture. This means that Paris is almost always full of visitors.
But if you are looking for a French city with a more authentic and relaxed atmosphere, where there is still plenty to see and do, then I recommend Rouen.
This hidden gem of a city is the cultural and historical capital of Normandy and is an incredible place to visit in autumn.
This is why:
The beauty of Rouen
Rouen is home to the second largest number of monumental buildings in France (Paris took the top spot), but unlike Paris, all the major sights are relatively close together, making it incredibly easy to explore on foot.
Despite Rouen’s excellent tram and bus system, I’ve never even had to use public transport!
When you visit the center of Rouen, the first thing you will notice is the abundance of medieval alleys and half-timbered houses. It feels like you’re taking a step back in time.
I’m typing this from my hotel room in Rouen, my second trip to this beautiful city.
But that doesn’t mean I’m biased when I talk about the beauty of Rouen! It’s breathtaking.
As for hotels, we stay in the Mercure Hotel Rouen Center Cathedrale, and I couldn’t recommend it more.
I don’t normally recommend chain hotels, but the location can’t be beat. You step out of the entrance and you stand in front of the city’s iconic Notre Dame Cathedral. There is no hotel closer!
As an added bonus, the hotel also has one of the best hotel breakfasts I have ever eaten.
I paid £149 ($190) per night for our stay in August, for a family of four. For a 2 night stay in mid-October (based on two people sharing a room) the rate would be $144 per night.
History In Rouen
Rouen is the perfect place for history buffs.
As a regular member of the history nerd club, I think it’s a great place to explore.
If you want to take a historical tour of the city, I recommend starting at the Historial Joan D’Arc.
This is a state-of-the-art interactive museum dedicated to Joan D’Arc, and you walk through huge digital exhibition spaces that tell the story of her life and death.
The room called the Salle de l’Officialite in the museum is the actual room where Joan was tried and sentenced to death in 1431.
Entrance costs 11 euros per person ($12) or you can get a discount ticket for a family of 4, which is 32 euros ($35) for 2 adults and 2 children. The exhibition is open from 10am to 7pm (with last entry at 5.15pm), but come early to see the place at its quietest.
For an additional 2 euros per person you can add a ticket to the L’aitre Saint-Maclou at. This is about a 3 minute walk away and is a fascinating, yet macabre place to explore.
The square here was used as a plague pit and the wooden frames of the building are decorated with skulls, bones and other reminders of that time. It’s well worth the extra few dollars and the extra few minutes to check it out!
If you only visit one attraction during your stay in Rouen, make it Notre Dame. This is the symbol of the city and its most iconic place. The tallest spire is the tallest in France and it is the 4e tallest church in the world.
Fun fact: Richard the Lionheart loved Rouen so much that his heart is buried in the cathedral.
Finally, if you’re not quite into history yet, visit the Tour Jeanne d’Arc. This is an imposing tower that was built at the beginning of the 13th centurye century, but now it’s home to a WWII themed escape room experience!
You can visit all these attractions in one day, but if you want time to relax, hang out in street cafes and people watch, allow two days.
The relaxed attitude of Rouen
Rouen is a relatively small city known for its relaxed and laid-back atmosphere.
You won’t find the same hustle and bustle here as in Paris, but you will notice that the people are warmer.
You’re welcome to linger in restaurants and bars and watch the world go by, and in the city’s Old Town it’s almost impossible to find a bar or cafe without an epic view.
Victor Hugo described Rouen as “the city of a hundred spires”, which basically says everything you need to know about the views.
If you want to enjoy a local delicacy with your dinner, Rouen is famous for its Canard a la Rouennaise, a centuries-old recipe for roast duck.
Unfortunately, American travelers can’t fly directly to Rouen, but the city is quite close to Paris, so you can use Charles de Gaulle Airport as an arrival hub.
From here the train takes about 2 hours and costs just $40. From central Paris the train takes 1 hour 30 minutes and prices start from $8.
It’s entirely possible to enjoy a two-centre trip, exploring the exciting atmosphere of Paris before moving to the more relaxing Rouen for the end of your trip.
I visited both Paris and Rouen as part of my visit to France this summer, and I fell more in love with Rouen than ever.
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The opinions expressed here are solely those of the author, and not those of any bank, credit card issuer, hotel, airline or other entity. This content has not been reviewed, approved, or otherwise endorsed by any of the entities included in the post.