There is so much going on in the next four weeks, between the Super Bowl; The constant rollout of the awards season, culminating in the Oscars on March 2; And which shock and awe of President Trump unleashes that it is difficult to imagine how fashion shows will cut out every room in the attention economy.
As if he is on Cue, the ready-made season, which starts this week in New York before rolling through London, Milan and Paris, increases the effort. There will not only be a big designer debut (the kind that can change how you dress), but also events with high wattage and, just as considerably, a huge trend that has already been created. This is what you need to know.
Separation of the sexes is over.
In 2016, under the leadership of Alessandro Michele, Gucci made the revolutionary decision to combine the lines of her men and women instead of presenting dividing shows, as was traditional. Before you could say “Runway Revolution!” Other brands jumped on the double gender bandwagon. It made both narrative and economic sense. After all, the genera do not exist separately. (They don’t even shop apart.) So why would their clothing be shown separately?
Well, it turned out, because women’s clothing is often so much more striking than men’s clothing-so-called sparkling, so much Wackier men’s clothing ended with the short end of the marketing stick. Presto: After a few seasons, fashion houses, including Gucci, started to return to the old ways, the better to get more attention to the men’s lines. Of course not all, but enough to make the movement feel like a whim, instead of a systemic sea change.
Now the pendulum has changed course. Even Gucci reconsider his decision, and this season Sabato de Sarno, the creative director of Gucci, will open the Milan Fashion Week with his first combined show. The debut of Veronica Leoni in Calvin Klein and Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford will also present double gender shows, such as Simone Bellotti’s Bally Show (possibly his last, such as rumor, he can move to Jil Sander), not to mention Fendi.
If three examples of something like a trend count, this is a big one.
Paris gets one with gala.
Fendi has not had a women’s clothing designer since Kim Jones left his post in October, but that does not prevent the label from holding a festive 100th birthday catwalk extravaganza during Milan’s fashion week.
Silvia Venturini Fendi, the head of men’s clothing and accessories and, as a granddaughter of the founders, for just one collection, the only family member of Fendi will still be officially at the house, who will design men’s and women’s clothing, which will be united in A Legacy-Honoring Blowout. It is not the first time that Mrs. Fendi has taken the design revenues (she also arrived after the death of Karl Lagerfeld in 2019), but although she clearly understands the DNA of the label, because it is also her DNA, there is no sign That she will make them make the post permanent.
Dan, on the evening of the first day of the Paris Fashion Week, the Louvre will keep his answer to Gala: the Grand Dîner du Louvre, a black Tie fundraising in honor of “Louvre Couture”, the very first fashion of the museum Exhibition, which was recently opened. Is held in Le Cour Marly, the sculpture filled in the courtyard with glass with glass roof where Nicolas Ghesquière once held a Louis Vuitton show” With an afterparty under the glass pyramid. With tables that have already been picked up by large fashion houses, it is certainly the most glamorous party of the season.
The only questions: will Oscar-goers be able to get it to Paris in time? And will the museum do it again next year?
Here too there is a crib magazine for designer debut.
There are so much designer debut this year that it is almost impossible to keep track of. They started in January with Peter Copping’s first -year Lanvin Show and will pick up Steam on day 2 of New York Fashion Week, when Veronica Leoni Unveils her view on Calvin Klein, who has not been on the catwalk since 2018. Given the lack of other major draws in New York – Ralph Lauren, these are out – all eyes will be on Mrs. Leoni, a usually unknown Italian and one of the rare women on top of an important global label.
In Milan, Lorenzo Serafini will go in the shoes of his mentor, Alberta Ferretti, such as Will Julian Klausner At Dries van Noten in Paris. In view of the fact that they were within agreements from designers who have worked for years with the founders they have replaced, they expect continuity, not a radical change.
For that look at Sarah BurtonThe old Alexander McQueen designer who left that house in 2023 and returns to fashion as creative director of Givenchy, who has left without a designer since Matthew Williams left at the beginning of 2024. (Whew! Do you have that?)
Mr. Williams was established to give Givenchy a streetwear lead, but the appointment was never logical, and Mrs. Burton, who is known for her soulful but adventurous imagination and Edgy measuring, should bring some clarity to the label.
Finally, Haider AckermannThe one has also been away from fashion for the past five years (in addition to a much content guest designer collection for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture in 2023), will reveal his first collection for Tom Ford. The very short period of Peter Hawkings, the former head of Mr. Ford of Men’s clothing, was characterized by a loyal (perhaps in loyal) representation of the greatest hits of Mr. Ford. Mr Ackermann’s task is to redefine the label for a new era.
Can Tom Ford exist without Tom Ford? It is still too viewed, but one thing is certain: apart from planning conflicts, the Haider Ackermann Superfans Timothée Chalamet and Tilda Swinton will most likely be in the audience.
Thanks to the designer Churn, a number of fashion houses are out this season while their new creative directors settle in their work and prepare for their septembers shows. Bottega Veneta (where Louise Trotter has just arrived), Celine (Michael Rider), Proenza Schouler (where Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez recently dismissed), JW Anderson and Loewe (where the designer, Jonathan Anderson, will be expected that he is expected to go down to go to go to go to go to fall aside for ascended To Dior) are all in a holding pattern.
As far as Chanel is concerned, still awaiting the arrival of Matthieu Blazy, the new designer, the collection will be re -designed by the studio.
Upper grid, with the clock with the clock from the top left by, Noam Galai/Getty images; Valerio Mezzanotti for the New York Times; Dmitry Kostyukov for the New York Times; Gabriel Bouys/Agence France-Presse-Getty images; Dmitry Kostyukov for the New York Times; Jingyu Lin for the New York Times
