“I started designing this before the elections,” said Joseph Altuzarra on the Saturday of the New York Fashion Week, gestures on his collection. “And then, when things started to unfold, we started to change things.”
Just like the knitted skirts combined with military peasant jackets and Martinet Tweeds, he said, “started with really cute little small -bordered edges” and then exploded in spherical pompomas of yarn. Just like the diamond crystals on a fresh white dumbbell dress, which were originally ‘small studs, and then they almost became rocks’. Just when the shoulders on his biased silk silk dresses Joan Crawford-Sharp became, and the funnel fences of his coats almost as shields. Even the pure organza flowers, once sweet from the 1950s, said, he said, “deflated.”
“We wanted it,” said Mr. Altuzarra, “to feel challenging.” He was, it turned out, not the only designer who was interested in that idea.
Since the presidential inauguration last month, the fashion world has been spoken, who supported Kamala Harris overwhelmingly, about whether fashion houses could follow the leadership of technology and finances and sacrifice the principles they had spoken in favor of public political neutrality.
But when the New York Fashion Week started, a kind of answer began to arise, at least under smaller, independent New York labels. There it appears that the opposition is alive and well – and is (even dancing) on the runway.
It is not that designers suddenly produce belts of protest -T pieces. They reach a little deeper and more essential than that. They weave issues of sustainability, gender and admission in their collections – the kind of values that is currently rejected by the Trump administration.
By doing this, they enclose a form of calm resistance in clothing, create items of clothing that celebrate experiments and allow carriers to lean in their chosen forms of self -expression and to undermine long -term (and reviving) standards. Every time they get up and put on something – and without saying a word.
At Collina Strada, for Example, The Designer Hillary Taymour Called Her Show “Fempire” and Sent Out Floral Camo Jackets, So Blouse-Y They Resembled Sartorial Bivouacs, and Shirting Slung Ruffles Across The Bodoleers, On All Sorts of Bodolers, or Bodolers, or Bodolers or Bodolers, or Bodolers, or Bodolers or Bodolers, or Bodolers, or Bodolers or Bodolers, or Bodolers or Bodolers, or Badolers, or Bodolers or Bodenik Like Like Like or Body Forms and sizes. Two women handed down the runway in white lace wedding dresses in the handle of a faux shelter, which also turned out to be the unveiling of a new company in adapted upcycling. (Bring your old family heritage to Mrs. Taymour, and she will make something new out of it.)
Still, in case someone didn’t get the message, most models had leopard spots on their faces. Because “everyone has different places,” said Mrs. Taymour Backstage. “And we have to respect that.” Who needs a Bullhorn if you have clothing?
That is why Eckhaus Latta the designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta said they wanted to concentrate on the base. (Only the facts, ma’am.) Or at least their version of the base, which takes old standards and shakes them to the left of the middle. Men’s clothing and women’s clothing usually goes together in one, with tops summarized as if of leftovers, pants hang on hips and the bags on freight pants that get a pregnant curve. The refusal of the designers to buy in Uptown tropics from Fancy, the clichés of beauty, which acts as his own kind of challenge.
Leather pieces, including blouson jackets, jeans, a-line skirts, knee-high boots and a carrying case, were merged by strips of black, white and taxi-yellow leather, as a blurry street scene. A dip-rejected jeans was painted to fit a dip-rejected paint-spread bong in the hand of the model as if it were a coupling bag. Or a flag.
The point, Sergio Hudson said after a show of Power Sportswear in saturated tones of cherry, evergreen, lilac and sky blue, is that clothing can be a supporting agent. Even, he said, an “educational moment.”
So it was for him anyway, when he heard that USSha Vance, the new second Lady, had worn his white dress and jacket to the wreath that was on the Arlington cemetery during the inaugural weekend. He hadn’t known anything about it – she had bought the look independently – until friends started to text him.
“It was strange, I’m not going to lie,” said Mr. Hudson, given that he had been involved in the Harris campaign and Michelle Obama and Kamala Harris dressed during the inauguration of Biden. “But everyone who buys my clothes, I appreciate it.”
Indeed, he noticed, the pure fact that Mrs. Vance could go online and that his clothes was an important memory. “It’s a free country,” he said.
