During the past seven days it was expected that around 50,000 visitors – industrial representatives, members of the public, reporters and influencers – would walk the carpet corridors and wonders from Geneva, taking into account new designs of the 60 luxury watch companies that exhibit there.
Talk is from an industry that fights to breathe new life into the trust of the consumer after the tree years that followed at Pandemic Lockdowns, came abruptly to an abrupt end 18 months ago. What do buyers want today? And what do they have to pay?
Every brand thinks it has the answer. And as the watches that have been introduced in recent days arrive in stores all over the world, those brands will soon discover if they were right.
Design on time
What is the right move for a brand is in the hands of his managers and creative minds, not to mention the engineers and the watchmakers who realize their plans. On the other hand, it is ultimately the buyers who really decide. Here are four very different watches, each designed to steal the spotlights (and part of a few wage controls).
Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524G
After the stack on social media that followed the introduction of his Cubitus model last fall, Patek returned to another watch that caused a ruckus in release: the pilot Travel Time version of his Calatrava design. When the vintage-looking, oversized watch with a second time zone function debuted in 2015, some observers called it a deviation for the watchmaker, but the Debonair design attracted fans. This year it has returned with a white gold cabinet of 42 millimeters, a lacquered ivory dial and a kaki-green composite fabric belt. Still in place is the smart solution for adjusting the local time, activated by the buttons on the left flank of the case. The promotion also adjusts the date and the local day/night -indicator, without – said Patek – any impact on the time observation prison of the watch.
$ 60.922
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold
When Lange introduced his Odysseus in 2019, luxury watchmakers had difficulty meet the demand for high-end sports watches with integrated metal bracelets. Although the appetite of the public has cooled for luxury watches, this category has proved resilient – partly because the production is strictly limited, so that the levels of delivery remain low and prices are high. Aim on this itteration of 40.5 millimeters, cast in long’s patented honey gold, a syrupy 18-carat gold that bridges the gap between yellow and pink gold. Long, which does not release production numbers, but is supposed to make only around 5,500 watches per year, reserves the material for the most exclusive watches – and indeed, there will only be 100. The company’s caliber, complete with oversized day and date displays, feeds one of the most unapologetic delicious watches of the 2025 show.
Price on the application
Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th birthday edition
A quarter of a century is an instant in the conditions of the watch, which can be the reason why the family -business independent watchmaker Gerald Charles Pas just comes into the picture. Behind the name is the story of Gerald Genta, the Lodestar Watch Designer of the 20th-century pieces of pieces such as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak (1972) and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus (1976). In 2005, Mr Genta created the Maestro, a Montrre à Guichet or Window Watch, with a new case that it was said to have been inspired by a baroque monument in Rome (and labeled with his own nickname of Mr. Genta). That GC39 design has now returned with a jump-dial display (the hours jump from one to the next instead of moving slowly with time) and a star motif dial that the brand said was produced with its own precision micro-chemical engraving technique. Only 100 are planned for production.
$ 42,300
Bremont Altitude MB Meteor
Undoubtedly, the only watch event last year that could compete with the noisy response to the introduction of Patek’s Cubitus changes at the British brand Bremont after an investment of $ 59 million by Hellcat Acquisitions, a private equity group in New York City. So the 2024 Terra Nova is now followed by the Altitude Collection, a trio watch inspired by aviation. Leading the Line is this mb meteor variant, Named for the Martin-Baker Company that makes Seats for Fighter Jets, and the Gloster Meteor Jet Used for Martin-Baker’s First Live Ejection Test in 1946. The 42-Millimeter Design is an update of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremonte of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremonte of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremate of bremonte’s series, and este-itted of bremate or bremate, and este’s series. Three-Tier Trip-Tick Case and Inner Rotating Bezel of Earlier Models, as well as the looped ejection pull handle the appearance of the counterbalance on the second hand. A version of 39 millimeters, which calls the brand an ‘everyday pilot watch’, and another on 42 millimeters with chronograph and second time zone functions complete the set.
$ 5,300
Less is more
Since the arrival of the smartwatch ten years ago (indeed, it was 2015 when Apple Watch entered the horological lexicon), mechanical watchmakers have walked to the hills – or at least to higher prices. But there are still brands that make watches at more accessible prices for those life -coming when only a good watch is sufficient.
Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik World Time
The German independent watchmaker Nomos Glashütte is known for a number of things, including that it runs a Berlin design studio in addition to a traditional watch factory in the Erts Mountains of Saxony, and that the internal mechanical watches offer excellent value. Here is one of those watches: a new world timer that beats a large part of the competition at function (via a single pusher), thickness (it is less than 10 millimeters), sportiness (it is water -resistant up to 100 meters) and price. It is planned to be offered as two collecting pillars, including this Silver Dial version and six Limited Editions.
$ 4,720
Frederique Constant Classical Eternal Calendar Production
The original king of the accessible mechanical watch is Frederique Constant, founded in 1988 by two managers who are postponed by the high prices of Swiss watches. Although they have moved since then, the company continues its admirable mission to bring mechanical watching within (relatively) reach. View this eternal calendar model, a three-day automatically powered by the 34th caliber of the company developed in-house but still beep on less than $ 10,000, a fraction of what most Swiss makers recommend for a mechanical watch with a calendar that keeps the leap years.
$ 9,995
Norqain Wild One Skeleton 39mm Baby Blue
New watches, as well as new faces, this year on Norqain. In addition to a set of brightly colored versions of 39 millimeters from his wild one skeleton-pinched with three millimeters compared to the existing Model is a new schedule of ambassadors joined the family businesses Swiss Independent. The football legends Gianluigi Buffon from Italy and Gary Neville of England have become partners in the young industry, as well as the faces of the campaign to support the new watches.
$ 5,790
Breitling Top Time B31
Another of the big name players who have not yet made an entrance at Watches and wonders from Geneva, besides Audemars Piguet and Omega, Breitling is Breitling. Nevertheless, this season, the private Swiss watch company has taken over to announce a new time and date version of its 1960s-inspired top time model, driven by a new caliber developed by Breitling with a 78-hour power reserve, and by Austin Butler. Breitling has given the watch a universal case size of 38 millimeters and said that the model, at least partly, is designed to lure buyers that are alienated by recent price lists.
$ 5,600
Caution on the wind
Austerity has his fans, but also non -conformity. Even in these safety times, there are still numerous colorful, experimental watches for those whose flavors reach beyond the conservative boundaries of most luxury watchmakers. There are four here.
Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR]
Ulysse Nardin has a new world record claim: the world’s lightest diving watch that is also water -resistant up to 200 meters (656 feet). The diver [AIR]’S titanium and carbon fiber housing, hollowed-out titanium movement and elastic fabric strap would weigh only 52 grams (1.8 grams) in total. And despite the feathered physique, it is said that the watch is shock resistant to the equivalent of a drop of five meters.
$ 38,000
RESSENCE Type 7 Night Blue
The founder of RESSENCE, the Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintens, is so obsessed with his concept of ‘simplification’ that he has the word trademark. Withdrawing a product to reveal its essence is the idea, and it has now been applied to the new type 7, Resence’s first tool watch, the industrial term for functional, sustainable timepieces. Tasted in titanium, the case of 41 millimeters contains the ROCS7 system, which connects a mechanical movement with a set-up of rotating discs that show the time (while floating in 2.95 milliliters of oil) via a series of micromagnets. The watch has a GMT function (which at the same time shows two time zones) and comes to an integrated titanium bracelet.
$ 42,500
Zenith GFJ -Kaliber 135
The initials GFJ are those of Georges Favre-Jacot, the 19th-century entrepreneur credited as the first to bring all the skills of Watchmaking under one roof when he founded Zenith in 1865. Al jaren hebben ze de muren van Zenith’s Zwiss-fabriek geproduceerd door Zenith van 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 tot 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 TOT 1949 Until 1949 to 1949 to 1949 to 1949 to 1949 to 1949 to 1949 to 1949 to 1949 that it says it has won more prizes for chronometric precision than in the history of the watch. The new movement is accurate to plus or at least 2 seconds a day and is covered with a lapis lazuli and blue mother-of-pearl dial, surrounded by a platinum cabinet of 39 millimeters.
$ 49,900
H. Moser & Cie Endeavor Center Seconds Concept Purple Email
Purple? It seems that watchmakers have been over the rainbow and back for many times in recent years, looking for simple ways to ratify existing designs and perhaps even to shock consumers to pay attention on the way. The intensely purple version of Moser of his otherwise stubborn modest striving for central seconds takes up that approach a different notch. The voter finish is achieved by engraving a white gold base, so that it takes on a hammered texture and then applying six layers of glassy glaze with the Grand Feu (Great Fire) technology. Because each layer has a different color, the end result is the characteristic gradient of Moser or Fumé, finish.
$ 29,700
