10am Go on a dumpling crawl
A single block of West Jianguo Road is a dumpling lover’s paradise. Start at Man Man Tang Bao, where Mr. Li Dailiang and his son make extra-delicate xiao long bao to order: steamed dumplings filled with a gelatinous pork stock that melts once cooked (from 20 renminbi for eight). Nearby, the circa-1885 Fuchun Xiao Long Bao does an excellent sheng jian man tou: a larger, doughier version of the pan-fried soup dumplings (from 18 renminbi for four). Choose from two types of wonton soup at Denglong Wonton: pork with bamboo shoots and watercress-like shepherd’s purse (25 renminbi) or pork with shrimp (32 renminbi). Although a light broth is traditional, it is rich here. You can even order an extra scoop of lard, aptly called le kou fu, or happy blessing (5 renminbi).
12:00 noon Go to the shops
On Julu Road, you can view loose-textured clothing with motifs inspired by the Tang Dynasty Label Del. and the latest news from emerging Chinese fashion designers Labelhood House. On Wuyuan Road, half a mile southwest, you can buy pretty little items at the Gathering, like gingko leaf-shaped copper tea strainers. Across the street is the Former residence of Zhang Lepingone of China’s first cartoonists and the creator of the children’s cartoon character Sanmao (“Three Hairs”), which is now a free museum. About a mile south, Yongkang Road is lined with old-fashioned shops like Gu Qing Ji Nam Pak Goods, which has sold pantry items like sauces, elixirs and cured meats made from family recipes since 1925. Sweet treats such as ice cream and tofu-based pudding can be found at Beiye Tofu (from 28 renminbi) and durian cakes at Yelo Bow (from 49 renminbi for a piece).
3:00 PM Experience traditional Chinese medicine
Kang You Si Ji is a popular wellness clinic using traditional Chinese medicine, with locations across the city. Head to the Jing’an branch for a full-body Tuina massage, a 2,000-year-old technique that works on the body’s energy, or qi (from 250 renminbi for an hour). The doctor will first ask about your sleep, digestion and stress levels (it may be helpful to prepare a brief written summary in Chinese), before observing your posture and looking for muscle tension. Then, a series of rhythmic movements follow your body’s meridian pathways, which are thought to transport Qi throughout the body. Add to that an ear cleaning for 168 renminbi, a service that involves loosening earwax with a tuning fork.
5 p.m Enjoy tea and art in a Wong Kar-wai movie
Fans of the 2000 film “In the Mood for Love” now have a way to step into its creator’s lush aesthetic. Mi Shang Prada Rong Zhaia new Prada dining and art space designed in collaboration with Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai. Sip tea on the garden terrace of the restored circa-1918 mansion or in an Art Deco room where almost every surface is mirrored, gilded or lined with velvet or lacquered wood. Order the tea ritual and try five varieties (228 renminbi), including the coveted Chinese pu’er variety. On the upper floors you can view the biennial art exhibitions, including an upcoming exhibition on finding meaning in data, created in collaboration with Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas’ studio AMO/OMA.
7:00 PM Taste classic Shanghainese cuisine
For 1930s nostalgia and excellent Shanghainese cuisine, go to Ren He Guan‘s Zhaojiabang Road location. The atmosphere would be kitschy if it weren’t so immersive, with mint green walls plastered with vintage art and stalls dimly lit by stained glass lamps. Most nights from 6 to 7 p.m., a singer sings folk songs on a small, neon-lit stage that resembles that of the Paramount, a historic neighborhood nightclub that reopened in 2017 after decades of neglect. Order classic savory-sweet dishes such as zui xia, shrimp poached in broth and soaked in preserved plum wine, served cold (53 renminbi); guo shao he man, stewed river eel with thinly sliced bamboo shoots and peppers (99 renminbi), and hong shao rou, pork belly stewed in soy sauce, Shaoxing wine and sugar (from 27 renminbi).
9 p.m Discover the alternative outside office hours
In recent years, the area around Fuxing Park, namely Nanchang Road and Fuxing Road, has turned into a low-key alternative to the techno and bottle service clubs that have long characterized Shanghai’s nightlife. Opened last year, Bar Leone is a Hong Kong import that serves classic cocktails (from 128 renminbi) with little twists, like a velvety whiskey sour shaken with olive oil, in a space styled after an Italian aperitivo bar. Across the park you can join the craze for Japanese-style listening bars Root down. A few streets away, Pole‘s cocktails (from 98 renminbi), such as the gin fizz made silky smooth with clarified yoghurt, are inspired by the so-called “three percent rule” of the late fashion designer Virgil Abloh through a slight adjustment. And for those who want bottle service, the entertainment complex INSin Fuxing Park, has eight venues dedicated to different music genres, from Chinese hip-hop to Studio 54-era disco (admission from 168 renminbi).
