On the Verge, rising talent from the worlds of fashion, food, music, art and design shows.
Mira Maktabi
Born in Beirut, designed in London Mira Maktabi Koons her interest in fashion: “Whether she had company or not, she would get dressed in a long velvet kaftan, beautiful glasses and diamond rings while they have cardamomity tea sharp at 5 pm,” says Maktabi, 26, says . The designer has brought this ethos of ‘well -made items of clothing that can [be passed down] For many generations’ to her own brand, which she started after obtaining her Master from Central Saint Martins in London last year. With her graduated collection, Maktabi fought her design heroes, such as the French Couturiers Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet, who were masters of draping, using the technology on silk tops and Georgette dresses. These appeared next to Cowhide leather jackets and softly custom pants, all in a limited palette of cream, chocolate brown and black. This month in London she presents a trunk show of her autumn 2025 collection, which says she is “a little dreamer, freer and more evening-oriented.” Each item is made to measure, she says, so that the items of clothing “really belong to the person she wears.” Although her home country of Lebanon was the most recently struck by a series of Israeli air strikes, Maktabi has trained itself to stay focused on her work: “If Lebanese people have been ingrained in the US,” she says. “Creation can be a form of escape.”
Skarule
Growing up in Latvia after the Soviet era, Sabine Skarule Developed a DIY -the -self -mentality at a young age. “In Riga from the 90s, clothing was not bought – they were made,” says the designer, 35. “My mother had a knitting machine and I learned how to make a piece of clothing all over again.” Although at the age of 24 she moved to Antwerp, Belgium, to study at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and, after graduating, moved to New York for an internship in line, Skarule deep is connected to her cultural heritage. Her 2020 Graduate Collection, for which she received the H&M Design Award, was entitled “+371” in reference to the international telephone code of Latvia, And she returned to Riga to start her namesake mark, which is defined by what she calls “Baltic nostalgia”. Her Spring 2025 collection comprises an oversized black leather jacket with a pattern inspired by a traditional Latvian men’s shirt, and she worked with local artisans on pieces such as a lack of hand and crocheted mosaic silk feast and hand-woven linen pants with fringes. For her new collection, which she will present during the Paris Fashion Week, “are the materials – linen, cotton, wool, leather – deep connected to a feeling of home,” she says. “The color palette is more grounded than normal. Riga’s gray dominates. “She wants to penetrate the brand, which is available at Mr. Larkin In Copenhagen and Houston, with what she “calls a quiet undercurrent of Latvian traditions, superstition and beliefs – the kind of details that only a local would recognize.”
Raquel de Carvalho
The Brazilian designer Raquel de Carvalho33, fell in love with yarn in 2012, when she worked with a textile factory in Tuscany for a knitted competition. In 2021, a few years after obtaining her postdoctoral diploma from the London College of Fashion, she won a competition for emerging designers in Florence and created a 12-part collection as part of the prize. She founded her name mark, which is now filled in the APOC store in London, Magarchivio in Florence, Italy, and the forumist in Stockholm, the following year. The inspiration for her new collection that she will present with a short film and lookbook during London Fashion Week-Was a hand-knitted sweater from the wardrobe of her deceased grandmother. “She died the day after my graduate catwalk show, so I wanted to make contact with her through this collection,” says the Carvalho. She grew vintage aran-sweafs-thick, hand-knitted garments from Ireland and then pronounced and reconstructed using a combination of embroidery and crocheted before they cover them with foil to give them the texture of leather. Other pieces include a pure blouse with a trompe l’Oil hook pattern and a gray knitted dress with metal wire woven everywhere. By printing a lace pattern on Jersey or playing with transparencies in her Intarsia sides dresses, the Carvalho hopes to explore new possibilities with yarn and rope. “I think many people still see Knitwear as something cozy and casual,” she says, “but I like to take it unexpectedly somewhere.”
Tíscar Espadas
The Spanish designer Tíscar Espadas31, argues for a slow approach to fashion, so that only one collection is released a year, which she calls a “capitulo” (“chapter”) of the book of her brand. “We don’t want to serve a season or a short period,” she says. “Much more interesting for us is the idea to build a deeper and more complex story.” After obtaining a Master in men’s clothing from the Royal College of Art in London (where she received a fair from Burberry), Espadas founded its own brand in 2019, which developed a cult in Japan and was filled in Mexico, Taiwan, Switzerland and Spain. Last year she won the Spanish Vogue Fashion Fund. The Espadas clothing often contains voluminous and off-cilter silhouettes; The new collection, which can currently be seen in her showroom in Tokyo, includes balloon -shaped shorts, elongated cardigans and jackets decorated with ceramic jasmine flowers and Sterling silver pens. “We start with sketches, but we allow ourselves to make mistakes on the way,” she says about her design process. “It is often at those times when unexpected details come to life.”
