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Man, I wanted to like this resort. Really and truly.
But it turns out I fell in love at first sight, like a Tinder date gone wrong.
No exaggeration: Secrets Papagayo is one of my favorite resorts I’ve ever stayed at, and not for obvious reasons.
If we’re honest, many vacationers who spend money on all-inclusive 5-stars like Papagayo spend more time nitpicking than actually enjoying the moment.
God forbid there’s a speck of dust in the corner of the room, you know?
Even the bougiest, Botoxed, lip-injected Beverly Hills know-it-all should admit this for adults only Haven is about as immaculate as it gets for a decades-old property that has stood the test of time remarkably – and actually feels Costa Rican.
Some resorts barely reflect their destination, as if they are simply extensions of America, designed around the guests who stay there.
Here, monkeys howl from the canopy, iguanas are welcomed as warmly as humans, and the ashy sands of the resort’s volcanic bay spill into the calm, clear waters of Culebra Bay.
It’s “Pique Season” at Secrets Papagayo
Maybe I’m crazy, but I’ve never understood how a calendar can determine your trip.
I loved Chicago in January as much as those who love going to Wrigley on a humid summer day, and now I’ve fallen in love with this resort during Costa Rica’s shoulder season.
The weather can be the mood here, and not the way you think. Often it can literally rain on your parade during your vacation, but this region of Guanacaste felt like they were contacting indigenous tribes to do a good rain dance as the usual dense green forestry was barren.
But don’t worry: it’s not enough to be an eyesore for your photos.
The high season, when perfect weather and higher prices are the norm, usually runs from December to April. In May it was just right and I switched to the ‘pique’ season, when the crowds have dispersed and you can do anything that piques your interest without having to fight everyone for a spot.
Would you like to take a guided sunset walk?
Belen, a true staff rock star who presided over everything from walking tours to karaoke and a possibly drunken version of “musical chairs,” managed to get me a seat before I could blink.
Kayaking to a secret beach next door?
No problem booking the same day I found out.
Last minute massage?
I was asked to undress and face down before I could say “Secrets Papagayo” three times quickly.
It’s kind of fun to say, isn’t it?
Dinner reservations?
I don’t need them. Even the only restaurant on site Himitsu because I needed them (for Hibachi/Teppanyaki only) I was able to get in touch 30 minutes in advance, although it’s possible I just got lucky…
No matter what I asked, I received prompt service and a virtually guaranteed spot for whatever piqued my interest at the time, something I had never experienced at other resorts.
Stay, your way
This is the part where I could embed a Frank Sinatra song, but a license would probably cost more than I get paid to write this.
The point is, this was the best resort I’ve stayed at to really make your holiday your own, on your own time – whether you’re an adrenaline junkie or someone who wants to languish at the pool bar (Manatees).
So of course I did both.
The excursions couldn’t have been more fun, even for someone traveling there alone amid a sea of couples celebrating everything from new love to graduations.
On days when I wanted to recharge, I asked for a massage and it was booked in no time, as well as a fish spa service, the likes of which you’ve probably seen in Asia.
The massage was just what the doctor ordered, and the setting couldn’t have been more serene: an outdoor thatched hut with waves crashing in the background after I’d already used the sauna and jacuzzi.
Any stress that Manatees’ caipirinhas couldn’t cure instantly melted away.
Furthermore, I loved my spacious room, which appeared to have been renovated in recent years, along with the elevated view of the bay from the patio – and the occasional reptile friend dropping by.
Iguanas live in the nooks and crannies of the grounds and occasionally come out to tan and stuff insects, but even for the squeamish it’s more of a quirky cameo than something that will annoy you.
Hey, you’re in Costa Rica.
When I felt recharged and longed for a change of scenery, there were plenty of options including guided trips across the border to Nicaragua.
This was the only notable thing: the minimum group size is 8, and if you fall short you’ll have to pay a hefty four-figure fee to go private.
Don’t mention it. Maybe next time.
Instead I opted to go kayaking, something I haven’t done in years due to a bad back, but you boy is training.
Many guests don’t realize it there is a secret beach next doornot accessible on foot due to the high tide.
Sign in at the pool activities desk and reserve your spot by simply providing your room number and signing a waiver.
It was amazing – the four of us paddled through paradise to ashen black sand shores that we had all to ourselves.
Well, almost all to ourselves, if you count the legend of a crocodile lurking in the small lagoon, which luckily decided to leave it out…
We picked and ate fresh tamarindo, learned the history of the beach and some very valuable tips for safer and more effective kayaking.
Be aware that there are some annoying vendors outside the property line offering jet ski rentals.
Costa Rica’s entire pristine coastline is publicso you can stay longer on this particular beach if you choose to rent a jet ski on your own time for a triple-digit amount.
Secrets Papagayo has 3 black sand bays
In addition to the aforementioned secret beach where there are virtually no footprints to be seen, there are two separate black sand coves on the Papagayo property: one is just steps from the main pool and the other behind the spa.
While this Hyatt offers its signature Preferred club amenities, there’s no private beach access or an exclusive pool here – just a chic lounge with popping cocktails.
I absolutely loved both beaches because they made it feel like you were really in Costa Rica.
In the distance, the Gulf of Papagayo gives way to hazy headlands, with even glimpses towards Nicaragua on a clear day, while the water remains calm enough for snorkeling or simply wading in with a drink in hand.
It was never too cold to come in; always inviting during the few times the pool bar ran out of bar stools or when my time was up at the pool cabana rental.
The service is what sets this resort apart
I’ve stayed at my fair share of resorts in Mexico and the Caribbean, so I know how easy it is to make the service feel rehearsed.
That’s what really sets Secrets Papagayo apart: the entire staff. Not once did I feel like I was just another face trying to… Pura Vida postcard.
From bartenders to guides to the lovely ladies who made omelettes every morning, everyone made you feel like you had a new friend – the kind you would actually remember if you ever came back.
I also can’t think of any other resort that was so consistently on time, whether it was late at night contactless room service cutting the 45 minute estimate in half, or the shuttle pickups that take you to other corners of the resort – a must because there are so many hills across from the former Hilton property.
All you have to do is call from your room or press the shuttle button in one of the main buildings.
Food was also surprisingly sensational.
With all-inclusives having a serious moment, Secrets Papagayo proved why the trend makes sense when done right.
Certainly, many resorts can keep the plates full and the drinks flowing, prioritizing quality over quantity. Very few resorts make the food worth talking about after checkout.
Not the case here…
Between the fresh fish and a juicy ribeye from Seaside Grill that ranks among the best resort meals I’ve had in recent memory, this wasn’t filler food – it was a highlight.
Why I always fly to Central America with Copa Airlines
I fully realize that not everyone reading this lives in Southern California, but last year’s Copa ribbon cutting was a real game-changer for San Diego travelers.
If you don’t know, San Diegans often fly from Tijuana for trips to Mexico, Costa Rica and El Salvador via Volaris, but who wants to be crammed into a carry-on for hours?
Copa Airlines can take you to more than 80 destinations in Latin America and the Caribbean, most likely connecting via Panama City, where the popular airline has its Stopover program allows it now A stay of up to 15 days at no extra cost.
That means you can turn one vacation into two, exploring Panama’s Dubai-like skyline, famous canal, beaches, rainforests or islands without treating it as a throwaway stopover.
Let me tell you: it’s impossible to have a bad time in Panama. I visited last year and have sung its praises almost daily since, especially when they surprised me with free Dreaming cabin upgrades both times, so you never know when it’s your lucky day.
Since Copa’s Guanacaste route wasn’t an option for my trip, I flew into San Jose, Costa Rica’s much larger airport, and booked a private shuttle to the resort.
Please know that this is not a quick beach transfer. The drive to Secrets Papagayo is a cross-country drive, and highway traffic can turn those optimistic trip estimates into pure fiction.
Any way you slice it, travelers feel safe throughout Panama and Costa Rica, each scoring 85/100 on our safety index:
