Alexandra O’Neill is one of the many shell collectors we encountered this season. Introduced as a refuge in a more literal and referential way, these sea treasures were transformed by the waves of inspiration. In addition to a contoured bag, the designer opted for a more subtle approach, using ruffles, scalloped edges and wavy lines as a stand-in for seaweed, shells and tides. The idea, she explained, was to stray from mermaid core without giving up all its beauty. One of the ways O’Neill achieved that goal was by shooting her lookbook at an estate in the English countryside with a shell cave. (Imagine a supersized sailor Valentine’s Day card.)
The art-loving designer had her perennial favorite, that of Botticelli Birth of Venus, on her mood board, hence the focus on shells and flowers. The latter formed the pattern of a beautiful, floating floral jacket (worn with shorts), inspired by the painting. In addition to the specifics, O’Neill drew from the artwork a sense of rebirth and openness that goes hand in hand with spring. The casting and setting gave a Pre-Raphaelite Ophelia aspect to some of the more romantic looks, such as a fluffy yet sheer dress with white puffed sleeves.
Change at Markarian is mainly driven by the choice of fabric. O’Neill isn’t thinking about creating a soup-to-nuts wardrobe; rather, she focuses on creating options for a variety of costume events. Because there are boxes to tick – options for Ascot, wedding, prom, dinner party in different styles such as ‘nude’, long, short, etc. – there may be looks that meet the need without contributing to the story of the offer as a whole. There was less of that this season: perhaps the well-chosen location contributed to the feeling that this was a more private and coherent collection.
