Moschino’s pre-fall collection is full of heart. The Italian label has never shied away from iconography, but with Davide Renne, the house’s new creative director, passing away less than a month after being appointed to the role, the symbol here took on new meaning. The first look, a ruffled-front tuxedo shirt, is adorned with a large red heart insert on the chest, while the last two looks feature fleece inserts running down the legs, and the arms of crew-neck sweaters with crisp cars. jackets. This same color blocking effect is used on other geometric shapes such as triangles and circles, which playfully played with perception.
The brand’s tongue-in-cheek aesthetic is reflected in the security tags that are an essential part of the personal shopping experience, done in bright red (what else?) and prominently placed on the front of jackets and trousers. It is also reflected in comically proportioned ties (extra wide, cut short with a blunt hem and done in brightly colored stripes); trompe l’oeil details such as trousers with built-in wide boxer straps, or shrunken sweatshirts with a ‘collage’ and button-downs; and unexpected knitted accents like a cummerbund that the house calls a “belly warmer.”
A sky blue suit was one of the highlights of the collection. The jacket, a slightly retro silhouette with three buttons and flap pockets, is made of leather, while the flared trousers and button-up shirt are made of woven fabric. Paired with a black tie with neon salmon dots, it’s unmistakably Moschino, no visual gags necessary.
