Portrait of an Explorer, the title of Stine Goya’s pre-fall lineup, may suggest a historical inspiration, but the designer’s focus is actually more personal. “We’re talking about how you as a person explore your inner self, how you can be super strong of mind and also be resilient or emotionally vulnerable — all those parts of your personality,” she said during a phone call. What it all comes down to is a collection of looks that suit different moods and occasions.
Goya has always had an eye for color and uses it for striking plain items that can easily be combined into an existing wardrobe. Pearl clasps were the designer’s fascination last season; hardware is central this season. A curve of metal tubing stamped with the brand’s logo and attached to the collar of a suit jacket doubles as a form of jewelry, much like a gold belt wrapped around a persimmon coat. Metal rings are used to create a pull-through effect on both a draped jersey cocktail dress and on bags. Casual crew-leg jeans are perfect for pairing with the brand’s Hailey Bieber-approved checkerboard sweater, now available as a peach and mocha cardigan.
The news before autumn is a poppy with photo print; its stamens glittered on a sporty, quilted bomber. Goya has largely moved away from her handmade motifs, so it was nice to see an irregular side stripe appear as if drawn on pajama pants. As this Copenhagen brand has gone global, it’s become chicer and more polished, but that little nostalgic touch creates the perfectly imperfect boho charm and ease of cycling that’s also part of the brand’s DNA.