Refined, classically oriented, quietly luxurious. Gabriela Hearst’s menswear encompasses many things, but sexy isn’t necessarily one of them. However, that changes with her offering for fall 2024. In the lookbook, there is a bit of midriff between a tight-fitting cable knit sweater and the low-slung, slightly flared trousers that go with it. The hip-huggers are modeled after the ones Hearst makes for Leiva, a Spanish musician and friend.
Hearst is an obsessive textile lover and her taste has always been rare, but her choices this season felt particularly sensual. The white and red silk velvet she used for button-up shirts (and the waistband of the silk cady pants they’re worn with) is as hard to come by as it is soft on the skin. Most designers are satisfied with using silk velvet with added viscose, which reduces the price. Not this designer. The black leather of a shirt, pants and car jacket combination looks just as supple. There is also a bomber jacket made of eco-cashmere bouclé and a hoodie made of cashmere “fur” with a lovely high pile.
Hearst reports an increase in requests from male celebrities, which explains the new vibe of the lineup. But there’s nothing as conventional here as traditional black tie. No ties either, even though they were often seen at the men’s shows in Milan and Paris. Sensualistic as she is, Hearst suggests wearing a tuxedo with a fine cotton jersey T-shirt and a fringed scarf – double-sided brushed cashmere, of course.
