“I have a good feeling about it,” David Koma said during a preview. Over the past few seasons, the designer’s demeanor before his shows has noticeably relaxed, a testament to his confidence in his own work – a growth that’s fantastic to see.
In keeping with his commitment to celebrating accomplished women in the creative field, Koma found inspiration for his fall collection from seismic figures in dance, including the late German neo-expressionist pioneer Pina Bausch and contemporary Spanish choreographer Candela Capitán. He wanted to juxtapose these influences with the impactful kinetic sculptures of artist Rebecca Horn, but it was his visit to the ‘Thin Air’ exhibition at London’s Royal Docks that sparked the concept of this collection. Reflecting on the experience, he said that “the space, light and sound were comforting, yet felt in line with my tastes. That’s when I started exploring dance and movement as central themes.”
Bausch’s fusion of everyday wear with dancewear is evident in sleek black and white ensembles featuring figure-hugging leggings and justacorps-inspired tops, along with elegant evening gowns complete with ballet bustiers. Tutus were reimagined with an assortment of fabrics and shades, from feathered hems on leotards to chiffon shrugs on mini dresses. The tailoring seemed more structured, made from neoprene, and came in the form of blazers, jackets and plume-embellished trousers.
Intricate, hand-spun creations evolved into vibrant graphic designs, embellishing floor-length macramé silhouettes accented by chunky-knit stoles that resembled frayed tweed. Sheepskin emerged from the miniskirts and leather linings of motorcycle jackets. And of course, no David Koma show would be complete without some dazzling garments that glittered with rock-sized crystals nestled in raw metal rings. Continuing the dance-inspired theme, satin slingbacks and boots were embellished with feathers that added a playful party girl flair. By the end of the show, Koma had us all tapping our toes.
