The only African-based brand officially scheduled to make its debut at Paris Fashion Week is South Africa’s Maxhosa Africa. Founder and creative director Laduma Ngxokolo traveled approximately 10,000 kilometers and wanted to make his dream of presenting in Paris a reality, something he had had his sights on for some time. Ngxokolo presented his work at the residence of the Ambassador of South Africa to France, bringing a touch of traditional Xhosa textiles and beadwork to the French capital.
It wasn’t a catwalk show or presentation; it’s a “cultural event,” he said backstage. It was not only a moment to connect with the African diaspora in Paris, but also a way to grow the Maxhosa Africa name beyond South Africa, he explained. Models walked out to the soundtrack, or monologue, of Ngxokolo, which told the story of South African culture, identity and fashion.
There is often a tendency for brands to make their collections more ‘mature’ or try to reflect heavy luxury brands when presenting in Paris. However, Ngxokolo was keen to do the opposite. He wanted to challenge Western perceptions of African fashion and show how traditional styles can be modernized for a new generation. “I love culture. I like colour. That is something I never compromise on when it comes to my aesthetic,” he said, noting that this does not mean that Maxhosa Africa clothing is not “sexy” or intriguing. “There is a misconception that when people talk about African fashion, sexiness is never mentioned in the same sentence,” he said. And there is a clear push to create more sensual African clothing that is not just for people in Africa, but also for other international markets. at.
Key silhouettes included men’s rainbow trousers and shirt and a dress with a Zulu woman embroidered on the garment. There is a wide range of design coming from the continent and Ngxokolo wants to see more culture and history embedded in the clothing: “As Africans, we don’t decorate our culture enough. There is a misconception that our culture should only be worn during Black History Month or when celebrating independence or on heritage days,” he said. “Our heritage should be worn every day and it should be the norm. That is what I am advocating.”
For a number of young and emerging designers, presenting in Paris is the ultimate goal. For African designers, it is a rare opportunity to connect with the international market and shape the conversation around African fashion. Although Ngxokolo is gearing up to open a store in New York’s SoHo next month, he said this Paris showcase isn’t a one-off: he plans to make it a regular occurrence. “I’ll be back, spring 2025,” he said.
