Brandon Maxwell has honed and refined his unique selling proposition over the past few seasons, getting to the essence of what he does. This is reflected in his clothes and the way he talks about them. During a showroom appointment, he described the process as a brand renovation. “It’s not about tearing the house down, but I’m updating my sensibility to reflect where I am now.” By way of example, he pointed to several pieces in his new pre-fall that build on collections dating back to his beginnings in 2015. For example, the creamy top in look 2 is now available in soft bias-cut silk, as he did in the beginning in a heavier material that he now considers ‘impossible’. As for the black dress with elegant turtleneck in look 19: in its previous life it was lime green and backless.
To extend the house metaphor, dramatic minimalism is a good description of Maxwell’s decorating style. Even with a fully covered back, the neck number is a real eye-catcher. Also striking was the lookbook-opening one-shoulder dress with an asymmetrical drape across the bodice. Although the effect is sensually streamlined, it should not be mistaken for simple. It took several dozen tries to get the sheet right, Maxwell said. Although he paid a lot of attention to evening wear, he did not neglect tailoring. A black jacket with side buttons and puffed lapels looked beautiful with a maxi skirt in pleated georgette.
