Mrs. Leoni always thought she would be a designer, even though she studied literature instead of going to the traditional fashion or art school. She learned the trade by depositing an internship for a fashion brand run by a family in Le Marche, Italy. After she graduated, she spoke to her way to Jil Sander.
“I remember her studio in Umbria, where everything was white – no seats, we had to stand,” said Mrs. Leoni. “I really feel that she honestly taught me design.”
However, it was her stint at Celine with Mrs. Philo, who learned Mrs. Leoni that a designer could become the personification of a brand. She was there at the same time with Matthieu Blazy (the incoming creative director of Chanel), Daniel Lee (now creative director at Burberry) and Peter Do (the designer of his own label in New York). They worked as ‘crazy’, she said, but none of them was of the opinion because they were so dedicated to Mrs. Philo. They are all still friends.
Mr. Blazy happened to be with Calvin Klein when Mr. Simons was in charge, but Mrs. Leoni said they had not discussed the brand. However, he ordered his favorite Smashburger spot in New York.
In 2023, Mrs. Leoni married Sara Casani, a film casting director. They have been together for 12 years. When she is home, Mrs. Leoni describes herself as ‘a first lady’. She commutes the commuting between Rome and New York and surfs his way through Manhattan, although she hopes to get a pied-à-terre in the city.
Although Calvin Klein’s management has somewhat covered his bets, Mrs. Leoni only has the management of the collection, the high-end, landing job area of the company, instead of the Jeremy Allen White Jeans part of the company and although she has to Produce only two collections per year, for spring and autumn, she starts to feel the pressure. The idea, said Eva Serrano, the global brand president of Calvin Klein, is to have Mrs. Leoni’s work drip to determine the pace and direction for everything else.
