Jasmin Larian Hekmat, the designer behind Cult Gaia, planned her 2024 resort collection and show almost a year before the big reveal last night in her hometown of Los Angeles. She called the new lineup Under the Sun, but she channeled the solar energy not of Southern California, but that of the South of France. “I have always enjoyed the convenience and glamor of St. Tropez. To me it’s quintessential Cult Gaia,” she said. This is evident from the fact that Hekmat is fluent in resort fashion, and expresses this all four seasons of the year at her label, which has become synonymous with warm-weather clothing.
To give the show a certain je ne sais quoi, she presented it at The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures. Guests passed over the sleek glass Barbra Streisand Bridge and entered the open-air domed roof. A pale citrus carpet covered the floor, echoing the sunshine and yellow seawall of St. Tropez. In the distance, the Hollywood Hills were lit with a golden hour glow.
Given the size of the stage, she made sure there was something new. Jeans, cut from significantly weighted denim in a carpenter’s silhouette, were a fresh development. Elaborate floral embroidery and beading contrasted beautifully with the details of the workwear. There were simpler sets of knitted shorts for day or day wear, depending on the wearer’s mood; cage dresses with drawstrings to cover up at the pool; and dresses with pouffes and trains for event decoration. A common thread throughout Hekmat’s collections is the contrast of nature with architecture, which is reflected in artisanal details such as embroidery, glass and pearl beads and raffia fringes. In a pursuit of sustainability, raffia dresses and skirts were made with leftovers from bags from seasons gone by.
When it came to the playful accessories the brand is so loved for, Hekmat did not disappoint. This season they include oversized straw hats, sculptural costume jewelry, dainty platform shoes and bags for every moment of the day. It’s easy to forget that Cult Gaia started as a bustle of flower crowns, back when Coachella was still a respectable music festival to attend, and wearing that headpiece wasn’t yet a punch line. Hekmat has gone much further than that, and the brand has gotten better for it.
