Francisco Cancino did not have a catwalk show this season. Instead, he presented his new collection in his studio in the historic Edificio Humboldt in downtown Mexico City, which dates to 1922 and is a few blocks away from other equally emblematic spaces that have fueled the Mexican imagination for decades. All these little details give context to the designer’s tenth collection – an important milestone for any independent designer, both in Mexico and around the world.
Taking Diego Rivera’s mural as a starting point Dream of a Sunday afternoon in Alameda Central, a work that brings together characters and stereotypes of the era to tell a story about Mexico itself, the designer looked to his own archives for inspiration.
Characteristic of this collection is Cancino’s loyal customer, who comes to him for Mexican folkloric clothing with a modern touch. His traditional blouses will prove to be a hit, especially with the recent revival of the boho trend. Seductive party dresses were made in striking colors – rare in the brand’s archive – from vintage fabrics; while tailoring with brocade and loose hems, and military-inspired jackets in linen offered elegant moments with unexpected twists.
It was a collection dominated by a kind of poetic eclecticism that did not forget the commercial side. That speaks to the maturity that Cancino has achieved, not only as a designer, but also as an entrepreneur.
