JJ Martin hasn’t taken any turn towards minimalism, but still the pre-fall atmosphere of La DoubleJ was a little less vibrant and flamboyant than usual. Black and white? Declaration solids? Is there a genetic mutation in LaDoubleJ?
“Evolution is our natural state as humans,” reasoned the ever-philosophical Martin. “We all need to evolve, and brands need to do the same.” As always with Martin, art and commerce are inextricably linked. While she generally prefers a less exuberant approach, “it’s actually something that comes from me,” she explained. “I need less noise, less distraction, more space and silence in my life and I want to show up in the world as a physical manifestation of that desire.”
However, the collection was still quintessentially La DoubleJ, with plenty of imaginative prints and new shapes to delight the label’s vast circle of acolytes. Inspired by Martin’s summer vacation along the Dodecanese Islands, the motifs referenced the frescoes at Villa Kerylos, a house in southern France built in the early 20th century in the ancient Greek Revival style. Symbols meant to evoke good luck, as well as a mythological menagerie of snakes and tigers, were reproduced in hand-placed prints on long, lightweight caftans and easy but glamorous tunics, as well as on a range of sunny weather pieces that could have come from the beach . to the city, with lots of dancing and palazzo parties in between.
New introductions included swinging circle dresses with lots of volume; roomy boyfriend shirts to throw over bathing suits after an energetic swim; denim jackets for cool summer evenings, and bohemian dresses in broderie anglaise, overprinted in shades of faded terracotta to create superficial interest as an alternative to flashy images. Without deviating from the impactful effect expected from La DoubleJ, the collection signaled a subtle shift towards a calmer approach. “We all go through cycles,” Martin said. “As women, we are cyclical beings, and when we are still, much wisdom emerges. Our culture doesn’t really honor silence because we feel like we’re not being productive or heard.” Martijn certainly has a point.
