For spring, Natasha Zinko transformed Soho Square, a de facto public park in the heart of central London, into a campsite decorated with tents of countless sizes. The Ukrainian designer’s pre-fall collection also has an outdoor theme, but with a cold-weather approach. “It’s a continuation of what we’ve done before, but everything is a little softer and with cold temperatures in mind,” she said in a preview.
In the past, Zinko has improved silhouettes by adding padded shoulders and torsos to leather items. This time she delved into the trompe l’oeil technique, digitally printing body-like patterns on hoodies, zip-up jackets and floor-length mesh dresses. Some of these garments display intricate crystal embroidery that shimmers in movement. Elsewhere, camel shearling jackets also incorporated the torso motif, while the same fluffy material was used to create matching hot pants, chic small handbags and knee-high military boots with pockets and stiletto heels.
Last season’s lingerie-inspired looks were transformed with the use of ribbed black cotton, which was expertly crafted into evening-appropriate off-the-shoulder tops and cut-out midi dresses. Zinko’s affinity for denim saw her take leftovers from previous collections and cleverly repurpose them into cargo-inspired wide-leg jeans, military-style jackets and asymmetrical skirts. While it’s refreshing to see a designer consistently build on and embrace themes from their archive, you can’t help but anticipate the other surprises she has in store. Perhaps a switch is on the horizon for the next IRL show, as ideas may feel stale.
