Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks have made spectacular surroundings – Tivoli, Arne Jacobsen’s house in the suburbs, Kongens Nytorv, a public square where passers-by could witness the action – part of their stories. The subject, of course, is their glamorous selves. So their decision to reduce the guest list to 150 and stage a non-seated show in their store (once the location of the Royal Pharmacy) was a marked change, one that the designers felt was in keeping with these volatile times.
Kate Moss, in her boho phase in mid-2010, was the muse of the combined Pre-Fall and Fall 2024 collections, but you wouldn’t have guessed it. During a pre-show conversation, Potts said the pair “didn’t really have a theme to begin with”, and ultimately there wasn’t much of one. Designers don’t have to reinvent the wheel every season, especially if the clothes reflect their own personal style.
As they prepare for their first decade as a brand, Saks and Potts have done a lot of stock-taking, and in many ways this reads like a greatest hits collection. The famous foxy coat was on the prowl again, as were the sexy lace-up leather pants from fall 2020. (In a strange coincidence, those pants were worn four years ago by a model standing next to a Ferrari; this show season was opened by Stella Maxwell, about whom G-Easy sang: “A Stella Maxwell right next to me / A Ferrari I’m buyin’ three.”) This show, which was carefully reduced to 14 endings, underlined the gift of duo for outerwear and for capturing a casually glamorous attitude.
The sporty tri-colour knit tops were a nice continuation of last season’s polos, and a party dress in a changing fabric, a leather puffer in sun-dried tomato red and a luxurious coat in a brown and white skin all had major appeal.
