A sleek pair of black capris, a forest green suit with a midi skirt, an LBD with a thick, sparkly collar—these are the things from St. John’s Spring 2024 Collection that I doubt will sell well, and be worn often. time after time by their respective owners. The brand’s MO—since St. John’s executive vice president of design Enrico Chiarparin took over late last year—has been making wearable, simple clothing with a touch of the 90s and 60s, with nods to classic American sportswear. This mission is aided by St. John’s stylist and creative consultant, Karla Welch (the two photos in the lookbook of a model lounging in a white T-shirt and boy cigarette pants? Welchian to the fullest).
This season there are a lot of garments that experiment with varying degrees of negative space, and this is where it gets interesting. A leather jacket and matching skirt are made of interlocking circles of leather, creating a chain mail-like effect. A minty knit mesh dress with a racer back is made with two types of lurex and resembles a tennis ball in texture and hue. The 1960s inspiration is particularly evident in smart miniskirts and matching jackets, and the highlight of the season is the marigold satin faille with a series of slits at the front. For the evening, there’s a sheer pink ballerina dress speckled with sequins (made with a bodysuit inside for modesty).
These aren’t particularly daring compared to what else is on offer at New York Fashion Week, but they’re pretty daring in the context of the brand. Perfect black pants are a necessity, but a tennis ball gown is something to remember.
