Forget Rome and its jam-packed Trastevere, Naples with its graffiti-splattered center, and Milan’s cathedral-anchored main square, where you practically have to wade through an indiscernible mass of bodies.
If you’re looking to experience Italy without the crowds, and at normal prices, Ferrara is where you should be headed.
Home to a stunning moated citadel, a plethora of family-owned trattorias dishing up hearty $15 pasta, and far fewer tourists than you’d expect for a city so beautiful and deeply historic, it’s rising fast in popularity right…
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