What’s Cooler Than Being Cool? Inside “Ice Cold: An Exploration of Hip-Hop Jewelry” at the AMNH

A new exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History has brought together 68 remarkable pieces of hip-hop jewelry that seem a world away from the dinosaur fossils, space matter and other wondrous specimens that attract school groups and science enthusiasts alike. a darkened gallery in the Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals, the giant chains, diamond pendants and gleaming grilles shine with both artistic bravado and a kind of anthropological, cultural significance.

‘Ice Cold: An Exploration of Hip-Hop Jewelry’ is the first major show to celebrate and contextualize the custom bling that artists like Bad Bunny, Cardi B, Slick Rick, A$AP Rocky, Tyler The Creator, Pharrell and Ghostface Killah have worn as part of their image. From the gold hanging version of the Adidas Superstars worn by Run-DMC to Drake’s ‘Crown Jewel of Toronto’, a diamond-encrusted CN Tower studded with the city’s sports mascots, this is an all-star lineup of rappers’ delights .

While the genre’s 50-year evolution is just a nod compared to the evolutionary timescales elsewhere in the museum, the curatorial team notes how ancient civilizations adopted similar signifiers to show off wealth. For example, the Etruscans wore gold dental bands such as ur-grills. More recently, with the rise in popularity of hip hop, artists who enjoyed success couldn’t just write bars about their VVS diamonds and jewelry, they had to be seen wearing them.

For those of a certain generation, the show’s title will bring to mind Outkast’s “Hey Ya” (“What’s cooler than being cool? Ice cold!”). But ice, like stones, can also mean expensive jewelry. Between the extravagant pavé settings, the exaggerated dimensions and the outrageous messages, the pieces here transcend mere trinkets; they serve as status symbols that are simultaneously ridiculous and awesome. Anyone who doubts its meaning can refer to Travis Scott’s gospel: ‘Diamonds are the woman of life…’