With his pre-autumn collection, Zuhair Murad tuned in to the music of the night. Picking up where his couture collection left off, the designer leaned on the concept of fly-by-night butterflies, using lush saturated colors and goth-tinged mystery on gossamer shapes for creatures that tend to wake up as soon as the stars to appear.
One of the new developments of the season was the faille print, made into a long dress. Classic shapes and materials were given bold embroideries and prints: an animal motif was extrapolated from wings enlarged to the degree, while a tie-dye style cotton poplin was covered in inky black butterflies. Mini dresses feature 3D prince applications; elsewhere, a flock lands on a classic coat, and artful, mismatched buttons light up a structured jacket or fitted skirt.
The designer experimented with lurex wool, giving it a denim-like treatment, embellished with domed crystal buttons. Jackets were trimmed with winking crystals, ditto trousers and bustiers. He expanded his range by offering translucent versions of nudes (in embroidered mesh with an integrated corset) on the one hand and his cool taffeta dresses on the other. In between there were workwear-inspired numbers in white cotton poplin decorated with elements in black guipure, a fuchsia wool silk jacquard with the new ZM monogram in a quasi-houndstooth slant, cady dresses with macramé rosettes and easy champagne beige kaftans. Silky draped jersey numbers in jewel tones – asymmetrical, off-the-shoulder, hourglass – should find many takers.
Murad continues to collaborate with Taylor Swift on her world tour, meaning he still has plenty of room to play with light and shadow, color and sparkle, and keep the imagination going.
