36 Hours on the Amalfi Coast, Italy: Things to Do and See

To get from Sorrento to Amalfi, the best and most picturesque way is by ferry (about an hour and a half, depending on the stops, about €25). Close to the port of Amalfi, called the Cathedral Cathedral of Sant’Andrea but better known as the Duomo di Amalfi, dates back to 987 but has been renovated several times over the centuries (entrance €3). The Romanesque and Byzantine elements illustrate how the port city was connected to other maritime powers during its heyday. Legend has it that if you walk up the stairs hand in hand (62 in total) with the person you love, you will not marry him or her. After visiting the sacred site, return to the earthly realm with a cappuccino and cornetto with your loved one Pasticceria Pansaa café and bar next to the cathedral (€12 at a table, €4 if you stand at the bar).

Above Amalfi, the Path of the Godsa walking path with olive trees, vineyards and lemon groves that hangs above the Mediterranean Sea is busy in high season. But the quieter, more secluded, shady and adjacent walk is the Valle delle Ferrierewhich passes the ruins of paper mills that used to be an important source of income here. The full approximately three-hour loop also leads to a nature reserve with stately poplars and the picturesque medieval village of Pontone, but you can adjust your route to a shorter distance. After your walk, head to Amalfi’s Museo della Cartaor the Paper Museum, set in a 13th-century mill and lovingly restored in 1971 with original wooden mauls and printing press on display (entrance €3).

Jackie Kennedy put La Tonnarellaa simple but charming beachside restaurant that the owners say she frequented, on the menu at the time she fell in love with the region. It’s worth walking down hundreds of steps from the quiet fishing village of Conca dei Marini, about a 10-minute taxi ride from Amalfi port (about €24 to €29; grab one from the stand). Dishes include small fried calamari and spaghetti with fresh lobster. Lunch for two, without wine, about €100.

From Conca dei Marini, take the Sita Sud bus (about 25 minutes) to Positano, the epicenter of shopping on the Amalfi Coast: Ceramiche Casola has been making hand-painted signs and the like since 1925. The colorful plates cost about $80 each and the store can ship larger items, such as flower pots, to your home. Bottega di Brunella kimonos and dresses made of silk and linen are designed and made in the city (the organic linen trousers cost €225). In the meantime Safari Positanohandmade sandals (from €85) come in almost every conceivable combination of style and color. Reward yourself with a cup after shopping Buca di Bacco gelateria — try the Limone di Amalfi or strawberry (€5 for two flavors).

In a 1953 Harper’s Bazaar essay, John Steinbeck wrote of Positano as a small, remote fishing village with few visitors. Now the town is unfortunately quite overrun, but Le Sirenuse has the same legendary family heritage as when Steinbeck visited. Antonio and Carla Sersale keep the building both reassuringly familiar and always up to date. One of the hotel bars, Francosis named after the beloved patriarch and is one of the best locations for aperitivo (classic Negroni, €25). A new mosaic tile artwork designed by Nicholas Partywas added to the hotel’s much-photographed pool in 2024. And this year Le Sirenuse launched a chic one beach club in Nerano, 25 minutes away (open to non-guests). In the restaurant, La Spondahundreds of candles on the terrace add to the romantic atmosphere, but the minimum spend of €160 per person for non-guests can be prohibitive. Aldo’s, also in the hotel, is the more casual option (dinner for two, about $160).

For those looking for nightlife in a cave overlooking the sea, Music on the rocks in Positano is open daily from 7pm to 4am with VIP booths and DJs playing everything from the 70s to Lady Gaga (entrance €30 to €50, including a drink). Clubs carved into the rocks appear to be an Amalfi signature: Il Pirata in Praiano, a town that is one of the hidden treasures of the coast, transforms from a beach club and restaurant into a sophisticated bar-lounge after closing time until 1am. Try the Mr. Negroni Goes to the Coast, with homemade vermouth, Campari, Solaro Capri Gin and limoncello foam (€20).