Some collaborations feel exciting: two brands in one room, a shared mood board and a final product that could have come from anywhere. This isn’t that. Instead, this is a collaboration that goes beyond excitement and focuses on something more culturally defining. In many ways it is the story of a shoe that shapes culture. Kiko Kostadinov joins the staff of Dr. Martens and puts him in the same line as Rick Owens, Raf Simons and Comme des Garçons. That is no small distinction. And based on what this collection delivers, the placement feels completely deserved.
The Kiko Kostadinov x Dr. Martens Made in England collection was first introduced at the Dante presentation in November 2025 as part of a defining moment for the brand. Not only was it Kostadinov’s first co-ed presentation, bringing together his menswear with the Fanning sisters’ womenswear, but it also marked the opening of his first store in London.
The collaboration did not come about quietly. Now, months later, the shoes are finally available. They will launch online and arrive in stores at Kiko Kostadinov Tokyo, Dover Street Market Ginza and Kiko Kostadinov Seoul on March 20. Both styles retail for £280 GBP (approximately $370 USD).
The TOE BOX shoe: A hybrid that deserves its complexity
The women’s design immediately stands out as the more visually expressive of the two. At its core, it combines a classic Oxford silhouette with a Mary Jane profile, a hybrid approach that reflects the experimental language of Kostadinov’s recent womenswear. As a result, the shoe resists easy categorization. It is not completely flat, nor completely a lace-up shoe. Instead, it exists somewhere in between and is stronger for it.
The upper combines embossed chartreuse suede and two-tone green leather, creating a layered, almost sculptural effect. Meanwhile, a single-eyelet lacing system sits alongside the cut-out construction and triple contrast stitching. Importantly, sewing does more than just decorate; it subtly alludes to Dr.’s legacy. Martens, without repeating it outright.
The chartreuse suede, embossed similar to snakeskin, wraps around the darker patent leather underneath, creating depth and visual tension. A small but defining detail follows: a Kiko Kostadinov Women’s Wear dog label on the laces, subtle, but unmistakable as soon as it is noticed.
Underneath, however, the structure remains firmly anchored in Dr.’s DNA. Martens. A rounded toe, Goodyear seam stitching and signature air-cushioned sole reinforce that these aren’t conceptual pieces; they are built to function.
The STRAP shoe: Workwear pushed to the limit
The STRAP shoe for men, on the other hand, operates in a completely different register. Done in an all-black palette, with even the signature yellow stitching removed, it leans closer to industrial equipment than traditional footwear. This is intentional.
Its defining feature is a riveted, heavyweight crossed Velcro system that completely replaces traditional lacing. As a result, the shoe feels utilitarian, almost architectural. It demands a second look, not because it’s loud, but because it’s unfamiliar. The material is just as important. The shoe is made from the last remaining spare rare dead leather from Dr. Martens. This means that the release is inherently limited, not by marketing, but by material reality.
Despite the radical appearance, the fundamental elements remain consistent: the round toe, the Goodyear welt construction and the air-cushioned sole. The craftsmanship is unchanged. Only the language has evolved.
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The DANTE E-WAX Book: Expanding the story
In addition to the shoe release, the collaboration extends to print with DANTE E-WAX, a special photo book by photographer E-WAX. The book documents the original Dante presentation, chronicling the show, the store opening and the debut of the collaboration itself. This means it offers something more lasting than just the collection. After all, fashion moves quickly. These types of objects don’t do that.
Release details
Both the TOE BOX shoe and the STRAP shoe retail for £280 GBP (approximately $370 USD) and are available now online through the Kiko Kostadinov online store. In-store releases will follow on March 20 at Kiko Kostadinov Tokyo, Dover Street Market Ginza and Kiko Kostadinov Seoul / Addicted. Given the limited nature of both designs, especially the deadstock construction of the STRAP Shoe, waiting for retail availability may not be the safest move.
Final thoughts
Ultimately, this collaboration succeeds because it avoids the obvious. Instead of leaning on nostalgia or superficial branding, it builds something new from a shared foundation. This reinforces a core idea: the most meaningful collaborations are not about merging identities, but about expanding them.
Featured image: Kiko Kostadinov/Dr. Martens
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