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We’ve heard it all before. Whether it is the threatening thing “going home” graffiti splashed across pastel walls in Barcelona, or crowds of waving locals taking to the streets of La Palma to protest against overtourism, Spain doesn’t exactly feel like the warmest welcome for today’s travelers.
The country is buckling under the weight of mass tourism, and frankly, the locals have every right to be frustrated. But one island in particular is going against the grain and essentially rolling out the welcome mat for foreigners.
Lanzarote is one of the smaller Canary Islands and much less visited than its neighbors actively invite Americans come to watch. If Tenerife and Gran Canaria don’t want them, this underrated volcanic gem certainly won’t say no to those tourist dollars.
Lanzarote is where I would go this year for some summer fun
I’ve never had an angry Catalan chase me down the Rambla with a water pistol – believe me, in this current Spanish climate, that can happen – and in Spain I’ve generally been fairly well received. No passive-aggressive waiters, rude B&B owners or anything like that.
But apparently posting a few photos from my recent trip to Galicia will suffice to sample the vitriol.
“We don’t need a promotion.”
‘Leave Galicia alone.’
“Stay away, American.”
(For the record, I’m not even American).
And look, I understand it to a certain extent. Living in Paris, I have seen firsthand how cruel mass tourism can be to local neighborhoods. But when I travel, spend my hard-earned dollars, and genuinely try to respect the culture (and not just take another Instagram-perfect photo), it doesn’t exactly feel fair to be yelled at or cursed at.
I think the next time I visit Spain, for me it will be Lanzarote:
What makes Lanzarote so unique among the Canary Islands
Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands, wilder, more rugged and less developed than Gran Canaria or Tenerife, is best known for its otherworldly volcanic landscapes, sandy beaches so wide they resemble mini-deserts, and slow-paced life.
In other words, if you’re mainly interested in Las Americas beach parties and the larger-than-life all-inclusive resorts, This may not be the place for you.
In the heart of Lanzarote, Timanfaya National Park is nothing short of a volcanic wonderland, dotted with fiery craters, geothermal sites and a surreal Mars-like landscape. It is the number one place to visit for those visiting Lanzarote, and for the foodies like me, a visit to Restaurante El Diablo is a must.
It is one of the most unique dining options in the entire Canary Islands. They grill their meat over the slowly escaping vapor of an ancient volcano, and their hilltop location overlooking the mountain-crossed park is not a sight you’ll soon forget.
Timanfaya does just one of several Lanzaroteno wonders of nature.
Jameos del Agua is another pit stop not to be missed: a lava cave that has been transformed into an underground concert hall. Even if you can’t catch a live performance here, there’s still a restaurant nearby, millennia-old tunnels to explore, and a cenote-style salt lake (although they don’t call it a cenote on this side of the pond).
At Mirador del Río you’ll find the classic clifftop viewpoint with breathtaking panoramas over the unspoilt north coast, and when the Canarian sun reaches its peak, there’s nowhere better to be than Papagayo:
A series of long stretches of golden sand surrounded by crystal clear waters, it is the best place in Lanzarote for swimming on that warm summer day.
Don’t sleep on Arrecife
Lanzarote’s main attraction is its untamed nature, as you may have noticed, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t vibrant towns to explore.
Arrecife, the capital, is a lively port with a rich colonial heritage: Unlike mainland Spain, Lanzarote was not settled by Spaniards until the late Middle Ages, and the architecture of the main settlement is reminiscent of Latin America.
After all, they were both based around the same time.
The streets are narrow and pedestrian-friendly, the houses are two stories high and whitewashed or painted in soft pastel shades, and on every corner there seems to be a picturesque square surrounded by palm trees and coffee shops.
On the coast, two castles stare at each other: Castillo de San Gabriel, a fortress built on a small island connected to the mainland by a man-made causeway, and Castillo de José, now an art museum, that stands guard over the harbor.
Oh, and the best part? No discouraging graffiti telling you to go home somewhere.
Check travel warnings in advance
If you are visiting Spain in the near future, make sure you check in advance to see if any Travel Alerts are in effect.
Moreover, you can always verify the real-time traveler safety score for Spain:
Picturesque coastal towns not to be missed
Puerto del Carmen is where most beach lovers flock: it is the one and only ‘resort strip’ on Lanzarote, with many restaurants and something you could call a nightlife.
Playa Blanca, on the south coast, has that relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere and is ideal for easy access to the Papagayo beaches, and to Teguise, further inland. you’ll find a more Old World, mainland Europe atmosphere: cobbled streets, traditional architecture and the occasional farmer’s market on Sundays.
For my fellow oenophiles, don’t miss San Bartolomé, another unconventional town in the La Geria wine region, where they grow vines amid volcanic ash. Their Malvasía wines are famous all over the Canary Islands, and here you drink them straight from the source.
Spain is changing its entry rules this year, and this also applies to Lanzarote.
Spain is changing its entry rules this year
This summer, certain Spanish airports will begin fingerprinting American travelers as part of the new EU-wide Entry/Exit system, and later this year, possibly from the fall, a mandatory travel permit will be required for Americans visiting as tourists.
Yes, the era of worry-free and completely visa-free travel is behind us. Make sure you keep an eye on the latest entry requirements to know exactly when the changes will take place, otherwise you could find yourself being denied boarding at the airport.
Is Lanzarote the most hospitable place in Spain right now?
7 in 10 American travelers plan to visit Spain in 2028.
Needless to say, a majority will head to places like Barcelona, Mallorca or Madrid, while only a small percentage will venture off the beaten track to places like Galicia, the equally underrated Asturias or even Lanzarote.
Angry Galicians in my Instagram comments, you can all take a cold pill: your beautiful province will not be overrun by tourists anytime soon.
See that it receives so very few guests compared to the main destinations across Spain and even the Canary Islands, Lanzarote wouldn’t mind some tourism trickling its way, if you know what we mean. It’s not just nice words and no actions either:
Last December, a Lanzarote-sponsored travel delegation went to Washington DC to promote the island as a destination to tour operators, industry associations and travel-oriented media.
Authorities recently did the same green illuminated harbor entrance in Playa Blanca to boutique cruise ships, signaling day trippers from the larger Canary Islands are welcome, and even new flight routes between the island and northern Spain on the horizon.
Not only is Lanzarote breathtakingly beautiful, it is also less crowded, open to tourism and eager to ride the latest wave of tourism in Spain. Will we see you there this summer?
